October 22, 2004 –

We were up early and on the road to Nova Scotia. Stopped at the tourist information booth just across the border – to get some information and have a stretch. Right close by was a little market – that had fresh breads etc. Picked a few minor supplies and the shop keeper even put together a selection of different apples for free when he heard about Keelan’s enjoyment of the wild apples.

We were able to successfully follow the directions into our friends place just outside of Halifax. After some conversation and convincing – we have decided to leave the motor home on the street in front of their place, and not stay in their house. This will become our base of operation for NS and Cape Breton. Thanks to Bruce and Denise for their great hospitality – and to Chelsea and Reed for being such good playmates for Mickey and Keelan.

October 23, 2004 –

Up this morning and off with Bruce and the kids to the Halifax Market. It is located in the old brewery building – (Alexander Keith’s) and has everything from musicians to lamb, wine, beer, woollen goods, fresh produce, etc. Great place to get lost in for a couple of hours – and have a variety of foods for breakfast, etc.

Afterwards Bruce gave us a tour of the Naval yards and we were able to see a number of both American and Canadian ships in dock – including one of the ill-fated submarines that Canada had brought from Britain. Followed this up with a quiet day visiting as the kids were content to play together.

October 24, 2004 –

Up and off to the local flea market this morning and then on to Peggy’s Cove.

The kids really loved playing around on the rocks at Peggy’s cove and watching the tide roar in and out. This was quaint little village – and there were a few tourists there – but not overwhelming. Keelan was really fascinated by the carving of the fisherman on the rocks and in taking pictures of the lighthouse and the anchors embedded in the rocks.

Off to the Swiss Air memorial and a walk around the memorial that they have erected (somewhat disappointing). Into a little tourist shop – where despite Mom’s disapproving looks – Dad bought a grab bag of cloths for $10.00. The bag weighed about ten pounds and you could not see what was in it – so it was a surprise for when we got home. Despite the protests we all seem to have gotten something we can use – and some to give away. The best liked was probably Mickey’s green Peggy Cove T-shirt that was printed on upside down and mirror image – he thinks it is a great find. Deb has insisted that we do not have any more room for such purchases.

October 25, 2004

We were up to an early start – (6:15) this morning to start the drive up towards Cape Breton. Crossed the causeway into Cape Breton about 9:30 – and Pat went in search of McLobster as was advertised at a local McDonald’s – but without success.   However we did drive by and had to stop at “Rita’s Place” Rita McNeill’s restaurant (which was closed) to take a picture and phone back to Deb’s sister and brother-in-law who are huge “Eat –A-Big Meal” fans. We continued up towards Louisburg and the National Historic Fort. We arrived at the Fort with an hour to spare before the next tour – so went back to a small coffee shop in Louisburg – for some great seafood chowder.

The tour of the fort was sort of disappointing – as most of the areas were closed – and the guide took 45 minutes of the 90 minute tour standing in front of a model of the fort and giving a history lesson. This could have been fair better presented inside the interpretive centre – and given more time to look around the fort buildings.

The fort was partially rebuilt on the original site starting in the 1960’s and it took longer to rebuild this part of it that it did for the original fort. Back then they worked with less men and more primitive equipment. However they probably didn’t have WCB looking over there shoulder. The fort is also older now that the original for was – as the original fort was destroyed by the British after their second occupation. The fort is starting to run down and having some significant maintenance costs – which the government is not sure that it can keep up with.

Part of the reason for the limited tour access in the off season – is that Louisburg has the largest collection of period artifacts within it walls and buildings – but without all of the security and “role” characters around they can not guarantee that things will stay put – so it is just easier to limit access to the site.

The fort itself was build on the assumption that any invasion would occur by sea – as the back of the fort was surrounded by marsh and swamp and it wasn’t believed that men and cannons could get up there. However both British invasions occurred from that rear – after ships blockaded the entrance to the harbour.

After finishing at Louisburg – went to the lighthouse at the far end of town – where the waves were extremely powerful – sending spray 10 – 15 meters into the air.

We then continued into Sidney – and on our way to the Cabot trail.   As we were arriving just at rush hour on a Monday afternoon we could not believe how light the traffic was. Then when the road dead ended at a point – we realized that we had missed our turn and now had to backtrack through town. Ended up hitting construction on the main route out of town – and it was poorly signed and we ended up circling around several time before we finally were able to get out of town. Thankfully we only had the Suzuki and could get in and out of tight spots easier than we could with the Motor Home.

Started driving up the Cabot trail with the intention of stopping at the first available motel for the night. We ended up having to drive all the way to Ingonish Beach before we were able to find a room as most other appeared to have closed for the season. As it was – they had to go up and turn on the heat in the cabin that they rented us – as they were in the process of closing down as well. The cabin consisted of two rooms each with two beds in it. The rooms were separated by a bathroom. The floors on the cabin seemed to slope a variety of different directions – which made it fun when you got up in the middle of the night. The cable in the town was also down so the kids were disappointed that they could not watch TV. We ended up eating a small meal in our room from a local convenience store as all the local restaurants were closed. Deb ended up taking a bath before bed to warm up – and Pat had one early the next morning before going out on a long walk (in search of coffee).

October 26, 2004

We were up and on the road the next morning – again without coffee as the local restaurant was closed (owners taking a break after the tourist season). Several miles outside of Ingonish, we saw a big bull moose eating quietly along a side road from the highway. We turned around so that Dad could get a picture – however the closer we got to the moose – the more attention he paid to us. Dad finally got out of the Suzuki and moved to the front of the vehicle to get a picture. At this point, the moose started to snort and move towards the car. Discretion being the better part of valour – we decided that we had intruded enough on the old boys breakfast and left. (Dad figures that the horns on the bull were wider than the Suzuki – although others are claiming that they were bigger than that.

Finally found a little coffee shop / convenience store about 30 km down the road where we were able to get coffee and breakfast. Although a bit cool and misty this morning – the fog and clouds burnt off and it turned into a great day.

We continued to drive around Cape Breton. Most of places closed but this meant there was very little traffic on the road. Were able to see a couple of whale “blows” from the “highlands” but they were on the move – and not staying around to play. The views from the highlands are spectacular – as you go up and over 5 passes as you make your way around. The passes are up to about 475 meters in height and climb quite quickly from the ocean level.

In the one area there was a significant portion of old growth hardwood forest that is protected. The trees are spectacular – with each hillside being in various stages of turning colour or loosing its leaves. Were able to take a walk at one spot – and the leaves covered the ground so thick it was difficult to find the path. There was also a Lone Shieling there (a remnant from the Scottish immigrants) that was unique to see.

It was also disappointing that the big Acadian Museum at Cheticamp was closed – given that 2004 was their big 400 year anniversary party – and many of the decorations and signs could still be found everywhere. We had to console ourselves with some really great fish and chips at a little restaurant there – that also had a really great Halloween display.

The Scottish Museum at Iona was also closed for the season – but we stopped in at the Wagmatcook First Nations Museum so that Mickey could do some more research on his school project. As the it was late enough in the day that the Anne Murray museum in Summerside was closed and felt that it was really not worth it to stay around another day – decided to push back to Halifax and the comfort of our own beds. We arrived back at the motor home about 8:45 that night.

October 27, 2004

Up this morning and as the day was sunny we went off to Lunenburg and the Atlantic Fisheries Museum. The town is a UNESCO world heritage site – and very picturesque. The Bluenose II was harboured here – but was getting prepared to be “shrink – wrapped” for the winter – so we could not go aboard. There are some really funky little shops and restaurants in town – a lot more being open than in other places we have seen.

The Atlantic Fisheries Museum was really a hit with the kids. They had an aquarium area; a number of boats that the boys could board and examine – and a huge number of exhibits on fishing. In one area there was even an older ship builder working on a ship that is to be launched next year – he was very interesting to talk to – and to learn how much this had become a dying art – with the use of fibreglass hulls.

One the way back stopped at Mahone Bay – which had lots of restaurants and artist studios located in a bunch of classic homes along the water front. Some of the homes had some spectacular Halloween displays – including one that had a whole Harry Potter theme. We spent some time walking around and also giving Dad some fresh air to help clear his migraine. Dad was able to sleep most of the way home and after an hour lay down in the motor home and as a result was able to come back to the land of the living.

October 28, 2004

Today was a study and play day for the kids – as Chelsea and Reed were off school. Pat and Bruce spent the day looking for and through Pawn Shops and second hand shops around Halifax and Dartmouth. Pat got Bruce lost on a couple of occasions and therefore is not as good a navigator as Deb is. Pat however insists it was the map and the fact that they do not show one way and dead ended streets.

This evening the adults went out shopping while Pat stayed at home with the kids. However everyone had to be home by 9:00 so that Deb could watch “Survivor”.