April 18 –
So, it is about a month before I retire from the Public Service, and I am headed on a flight home after a couple of days with the Office of the Wet’suwet’en. This should be the last of my work travel and I now look forward to my retirement journey. I was gifted a package of homemade dried salmon (thanks Martina), which was a wonderful surprise and will augment the 60 days of meals that I have dried over the last couple of months (burnt out my small Excelsior food drier in the process). The kayak is in the shop, getting new lines and rudder assembly installed. I am slowly starting to both pull together and pare down my gear. All of which is my usual way to hide how excited, anxious, and nervous I am.
I have really enjoyed the last little bit of work I have been doing, and it has re-energized me – so therefore wonder if it is the right time to leave. At the same time, I know that if I do not do this trip now, it may not happen as it is not something that Deb wants to undertake with me. I worry that after a couple of weeks of searching for and nurturing my inner hermit, that I will come to the conclusion that I must have totally lost my mind to have undertaken this rather than simply driven the kayak down to Kentucky. I will have to wait and see.
At this point, the plan is to put the kayak in the Milk River at Havre, Montana, sometime during the long weekend in May. (initially wanted to go from Alberta – but the timing and arrangements to do a river crossing of the border in the middle of nowhere was just too difficult to coordinate.). I will then continue East and South, until I come to my senses / loose my mind; have sorted out what is next; or get close to the cabin in Cadiz. From an overview point of view – this means following the Milk River until you it joins the Missouri, floating down the Missouri (in the reverse direction of Lewis and Clark) to St. Louis where it joins the Mississippi. From there continue South until the Tennessee River enters the Mississippi (about 45 miles from our cabin). Original dream was to continue to New Orleans and the Gulf of Mexico – but that may have to wait until a later time – however the idea of paddling into Memphis has started to gain interest.
This “odd-essy” has been dubbed Drift Away – as I am really on no schedule, and will travel each day as short or as far as the weather and/or mood takes me. I would like to be home in Cranbrook by late September at the latest … but will see how things go. My intent is to post my position regularly through a GPS program, and update a blog whenever I have wifi access.
Those are the best laid plans and intentions – let’s see how far astray this all gets.
For those of you that have being asking exactly what sort of “craft” I am taking to Kentucky – well – its a 1996 Perception Jocassee Tandem Kayak – 16 feet, 4 inches long, and 32 inches wide. It weighs a grand total of 80lbs empty . It has been reviewed as a stable two-seater with room for a child / dog in the middle- if necessary – plenty of room for gear. Capacity: 800 lbs, Cockpit is 7′ long, 26″ wide. It is an open cockpit but handles heavy water easily with or without the spray skirt.
Getting Ready to – Drift Away –
May 13, 2019
Four more working days until retirement. Spent the weekend at the cabin finalizing all the preparations for the trip – paring down gear, cloths and food – and seeing if everything will fit into the boat.
- Had my stitches removed from the knee surgery this morning and have been given the green light to go from the doc.
- Have purchases supplemental medical trip insurance until Sept 1 – should I want to be gone that long. This gives me the ability to poke along, sit out bad weather, and take all the time I need. (besides if I return early – I can get a refund)
- A three month supply of medications has been picked up and stored is a secure and waterproof container.
- A test run of the SPOT satellite communication system has been conducted and will see if it also allows Mick to post a map of my progress to this site.
- Deb has made the decision to drive me about another hour and a half beyond Havre, MT. for my put start point. We will play it by ear based on water flow – but this extra drive – saves me about 200 miles of shallow twisty river and irrigation dams to portage and means that I join the Missouri and deeper water much sooner.
- Deb is planning to stay around the area for my first night on the river- as I finish my shake-down to see if there is any last minute item I have forgotten before she heads home.
I have had a couple of requests to show the kayak complete with gear that is being loaded – so took a couple of pics before doing a practice load …
Things to note:
- waterproof camera on front (yellow at bow). Mounting bracket doubles to hold lights for night running
- solar panels to charge battery – located between yellow and blue bag – mounts in front of front seat.
- stabilization pontoons at back for sailing, fishing and if necessary to sleep on board.
- take down umbrella for shade
And for companionship – I have added Scrat (the sabre tooth squirrel from Ice Age). Scrat is an experienced traveler and co-pilot having rode with Mick and I in 2008 down the Hwy 127 yards sale to Chattanooga, across to the Natchez Trace to Avery Island before heading home. Of course that time he was duct taped to the top of the Jetta. Scrat may be a little worse for wear – having lost his tail, and being permanently bug stained, but for nostalgia sake he had to come. I have promised not to bring him back – hopefully leaving him at the cabin in Cadiz – but I believe Deb hopes that he gets lost along the way …
I have also been asked to show how what the entire trip would look like if I complete the whole thing by river. (Note – if I decide to bail out early – then I will rent a car and take the kayak the rest of the way – as the goal is to get it to our cabin in Cadiz). The yellow highlighted area gives an approximate idea of where we think I will start on the Milk River – where it joins the Missouri and then eventually flows into the Mississippi at St. Louis. My final destination is Cairo – where the Tennessee River joins the Mississippi – and about 45 miles from our cabin.
On a more serious note – as this is now becoming close to a reality – and I am both excited and nervous. Leaving the predictability of going to work and the friends and colleagues I have made is a bit unnerving. However, this is something I have thought about since I was in my mid-twenties – when I learned that the Milk River in Alberta flowed into the Gulf of Mexico. But, I have to remember that is being done with a 60 year old body … It may be a good or stupid decision – but either way I am sure I will learn from it – and have the time to figure out what I want to do with the next stage of my life – before I drive Deb nuts by being underfoot.
End and Beginning
May 17 –
So I have finished my last day of work (with a wide range of emotions) – packed up my office and have the car packed and kayak loaded. Thanks to Marilyn for staying with me to the very end – and accepting and signing back in my keys, boxing up the computer, etc. I think it was fair to say that this was a lot harder on both of us than we thought it would be. We have worked together for 17 years and have always been there for each other.
Deb and I leave for Montana tomorrow morning. The weather is supposed to be cool, cloudy and rainy for the next 4 days – not exactly the best send off by mother nature – but at least there will be a little more water in the Milk River.
We did a full kayak load and dry run on Wednesday night out at Moyie Lake – and not only does the boat float (one of Deb’s worries – although I know I have gained a little weight over the last 2 years – it does have an 800lb capacity), and that I was able to get in and out of the kayak nimbly with my knee (part of both of our worries). From how the kayak rides in the water – we seem to have the weight relatively well distributed. We added a little more velcro to the kayak – to support the spray skirt adaptions, and have finalized the location of the front seat and secured it. That is probably as good as it gets – for now – but I fully expect to be making alterations along the trip.
Start of Journey –
May 19 – Day 1 on the Milk – sort of.
Up this morning and had the pleasant surprise of being greeted by sunshine. Went to pay out motel bill and the lady who ran the motel, said that she used to run the bar in Saco, and remembered the young man who had stopped on his way south on the river with his father’s ashes. This is one of the journeys I had read that inspired me when researching this trip. Sort of a nice coincidence.
Headed out to find a place to put the kayak in. This turned out to be a bit of a gong show. Anywhere you could get road access to the river, the banks were too steep, and the property fenced off. Tried behind the hospital at Glasgow on a suggestion of a local, only to find it was too steep and muddy. And this mud is almost impossible to get off. It cakes about 2 inches think and adheres like a caulking compound.
Finally had to go all the way to the Missouri River and put in at School Access upon recommendations of the people who were headed out fishing with there boat at the point where the Milk joins the Missouri. Finally was able to get the Kayak in about 2:00 with the intent of paddling for a couple of hours and then stopping and sending Deb the all okay signal from the Spot as there is no cell service
Paddling conditions varied considerably throughout the afternoon- from sunny to clouds, to wind and sprinkles of rain. Once I reached the Milk River I took the opportunity to paddle a short distance up the river and thank the people we had met for their launch location,
About 4:00 went to stop at a little island, with a nice sand bar and a back eddy. Edged the kayak in backwards and jumped out when ran aground. Remember that mud that we previously encountered but obviously did not learn our lesson from. Well this time it was like quicksand, sinking up to my knees, grabbing both sandals, ripping the straps off one to the point where it was non-repairable. Had to lay across kayak to get out, but only after falling totally in – twice. I was laughing so hard thinking about what Deb would think, and hearing Arlene’s words about there being difficulties to overcome. Tried three more possible locations, finally settling on one across from Fort Peck reservation. Still fairly muddy landing, but a sandy bench up about 20 feet. Ended up unloading kayak and setting up the tent in my bare feet and wet cloths – due to rain clouds in the area. Then found a place to scrap the mud off my feet and wash then. It took about 3 hours for me to get full feeling back in my toes. I then washed the cloths, and hung then on the bushes to attempt to dry. With new dry cloths on I went to start supper – and stepped over a log and had a stick roll out from me resulting in an ungraceful splits, and a 6 inch rip in the crotch of my blue camo pants. (Temporary mending job done under flashlight in the tent.)
Sent the okay signal to deb – wondering if I actually was, and then settled down to a seafood chowder supper (had planned on having a big sandwich, but it got left in the cooler in the car – along with my sausage and cheese – hopefully Deb will enjoy).
Weather cleared up, and there was a beautiful sunset, although the clear skies will drop temperature to close to freezing. The water became mirror like calm, and you could hear big fish jumping, and the turkeys, ducks and geese. Two deer walked down for an evening drink.
Eventful first day. In the tent by 8:45.
May 20 – Town – not
Slept well, except for the two deer that decided that I had camped on
their trail, and walked by on either side of tent, close enough to kick
the guy line, and the pack of coyotes that decided to practice their
harmony on the ledge 20 ft behind the tent. The locals were making it
clear I was trespassing. Oh – and the leg cramps. I was expecting my
arms to be sore, but both legs charlie horsed over the course of the
night.
Woke up to a foggy morning – with a frost covering the tent and the
clothes I had left our to dry. There were small pieces of ice floating
down the river and it was so calm that the fish were making considerable
noise when the jumped. Note to self – put cold weather gear in with
sleeping bag as was a wee bit chilly last night
Double helping of oatmeal and two cups of coffee and then started to break camp. Have moved a few things around, and therefore it took a couple of tries to pack canoe. Opted to go from sand, through the mud and into water in my bare feet, and then wash them off the best I can, and put pool shoes on in kayak ( the pool shoes just get sucked off with the mud). I now regret not taking my neoprene zip up boots, figuring they would too warm as they would have worked great in the mud and my feet would be warmer
On the river by 9:30 and the first hour was gorgeous, with the sun burning off the fog, and the river being calm. Then the clouds rolled in and the wind picked up. You had to work to not be blown backwards or sideways, and for only on short section did I have the wind at my back. It was a cold wind and at times there were 2 ft high whitecaps if the wind had a long enough run. If also churned up the water making it hard to see deadheads and shallows. Got stuck once on a submerged sandbar and had to line the kayak out. Unfortunately in getting out of boat difference in my weight made it float quickly, resulting in me doing the splits and my blue camo pants losing the crouch again. To be fair, the material seems to have small holes and tears – almost like batteries acid got on them. So I have decided to sacrifice the lowest of the two zip off sections and uses the material to make repairs, and just have capris. It does not look pretty but it is better than getting arrested for indecent exposure. Encounter two small rapid sets early in the day, but with little noise you could clearly hear them and scout the river. Still haven’t seen anyone else on the river except for the 3 fisherman who gave us directions.
Was going to stop for lunch around 12:30 (I had made a thermos chowder (trying to use up my dried shrimp)), but was having difficulty. finding a place to stop. Then off in the distance I saw a water tower, figuring a town with wifi or cell. Paddled a couple of hours to get there only to find that the town was not on the river. I then battled wind and high banks for awhile, finally finding a place to stop to eat my lunch about 5. After sitting for a few minutes I realized how tired and cold I was and decided to camp there. There was no sheltered spot so it was challenging setting up the tent in the strong wind. Almost lost it once when the pegs gave way while I was putting the pole in. Had to use the paddled to brace the wind side. Hunkered downing the tent to warm up mend the camo pants for the second time. One good thing about the strong wind is that it didn’t take long to dry the clothes.
Just before dark, the wind quit, and it was a beautiful evening, until about 60 geese flew into the small island across from me and started their honking. They finally quieted down about 10:00 pm
May 21 – A bridge too far
Up early to rain, but no wind. Waited for the showers to end and then packed up quickly. On the river by 8:15 – full spray skirt as rain continued off and on until about noon. And then the wind picked up. At least with the spray skirt my feet were warmer. Stopped on an island for lunch and hid in the trees to stay warm.
The Blue camo pants did not make getting out of the kayak, tearing the material beside the repair. Therefore they are junk, and I am down a pair of pants. My thermarest has developed a slow leak, as has my camp pillow and water bucket, so hopefully I will find a nice spot to spend a couple of days and relax and make repairs,
Came across a farmer with a tractor, trying successfully to pull a cow out of the mud. Says he loses a couple a year that he does not find in time. Says he puts temporary fences across the paths down, but the still did a way around. Apparently it will be another month before things dry up enough for most to be safe. For me it means a scramble trying to find camping sites – between the mud and steep banks.
At lunch, I checked my GPS and figured that I was only 15 miles to Wolf Point. I decided to push for there for tonight in order to hopefully get cell service so I could send a message home, and keep Deb from worrying. However, with the string winds throughout the afternoon, I did not make as good a time as I hoped and did not get in until 6.
Upon arriving at Wolf Point, I asked a couple of people fishing off the banks if there was a good pull out or camping spot – thinking I might spoil myself to a meal or even a motel room They told me, there was a place at the bridge, just down the river. Turns out it’s about 6 miles out of town, and although there a boat launch, there is no overnight camping. Tried the others side of the bridge but it was just below a bar and gun range, so figured I could do better. Ended up on a high and steep river bank that had sloughed away, with barely enough sort of flat space for the tent on one level and a cooking area on another. Hopefully it does not rain tonight. Found the site at 8:00 pm and it took about an hour to set up and cook supper..
Was able to get cell service so was able to send messages home, plus have Mick post this to the website. Will probably be out of service for a while again, so don’t know when the next update will happen.
May 22 – Short Day
Up to a lazy start, as the wind was already blowing, but the clouds were high overhead so did not look like it could rain. Wolf Point temperature was 8 C but with the wind they said it was more like 4 C.
The water rose about 6 inches overnight so it’s a good thing had the boat tied up. Made breakfast, coffee and thermos lunch before leaving. Had enough water to brush my teeth and take a half a water bottle. Will need to stop and purify some tonight.
Wind did not let up, but decided to start out so as to not have to be stuck on the small ledge I had camped on. On the water by 10:00 AM. The wind barely let up and it was not until 11:00 that a got a quick lull and was able to drink my coffee. It is tricky trying not to get swamped by heading directly into the wave, when you have standing waves situated one way and whitecaps coming at 60 degree angles. Tiring keep watch of everything ( including the many rocks and Deadheads) not to mention exhausting on the arms.
At noon I nudged into a swallow eddy with the wind behind me, and had lunch onboard, as it was way too muddy to get out. Headed off again after about 30 minutes, and continue down river when I paddled – otherwise I would be going backward. Found a small island with a sheltered back eddy about 2:30 and decided to stop. Was going to set the tent on the lee side of big driftwood stump and tree, but it appears the coyote found the spot first. There was a small den and lots of goose and duck feathers. So I am set up in a less protected area about 60 feet away. Live and Let live – right.
The island is small, maybe 3 minutes to walk around, and only one spot by the water with cell service. Purified enough water for a couple of days. The water that we got from the Riverside motel in Malta tasted fine, but would dry out your mouth in a couple of minutes. Hopefully this water is better.
With the wind blowing as much as it is, the sand gets into everything. You always have grit in you mouth, and I am sure that I am carrying an extra 20 pounds of weight.
Tonight to relax, do repairs, and see what the weather is like tomorrow. The island gives me a chance to walk and stretch my legs, as they are often like hello when I first step out if the boat and start to move around. I may end up staying another day, depending on how I feel. No schedule so there is always tomorrow. Not bad for not being at work. Schedule already toast, sore arms, wobbly legs, tired, dirty, smelly, but happy.
May 23 – Beautiful Day
So after getting everything set up and done yesterday, I laid down in the tent before supper and snoozed as the tent warmer an the sun and I was out of the wind. This gave a chance for my feet to get warm and some feeling in them – which seems normal, for this temperature. What was not normal was that it felt like the bottom outside edges of both feet were bruised. I guess I was pushing too hard on the rudder pedals fighting the wind, that I did a number on them. Will try my heavier pool shoes tomorrow to see if that helps. As a result, I had a poor sleep being awake with aching feet. (Also the repair on the camp pillow worked – but now it blew out the entire seem – so no pillow. But it was the first night I had time to use my eReader.
Woke up to sun shining down and not a cloud in the sky. Although it was cool overnight, the sun heated up the tent fast. Moved, or rather hobbled slowly and packed things up and treated myself to corn beef hash and eggs (all dried or powdered) as well as a cup of coffee on site and another for the kayak.
Pushed off a little later than usual – and headed out on the calm waters. Although I did not see my island mate at all – when I entered the main channel and looked back – there was a coyote on the knoll watching me. Maybe he was giving me my space too.
The day was beautiful and sunny, with just the occasional breeze to keep you from overheating. About noon I put on a long sleeve shirt to protect my arms and had my pants rolled down below my knees. Well it was the right idea – but not enough. My shins on both legs burnt as did the back of my neck. The sun block had not yet been moved to an accessible place, so resorted to covering my neck with a towel, and putting the collapsible water pail on one leg and foot he bailing sponge on the other. Actually felt pretty good.
Passed through another town at about 4:00, but this one did not have a place to dock or get easy access. Seems that people down here do not build parks or boat launches along the river. Those that are fishing are doing so from the shore. I still have not seen another person on the river.
Found another island about an hour away where I set up camp. Walked the island and found a single spot where I could get intermittent cell service, so sent a message home. Deb sent me a reminder, that I am not on a time line and therefore don’t have to rush, but I am not really following the map or setting goals. I am simply paddling based on the weather and time of day – and the looking for an appropriate camp spot, that I can get to without having to fight the Missouri mud. (Finally took the tensor off my good knee this morning and it feels fine – just being more careful)
May 24 – Air Raid Siren???
Awaken at about 7:00 AM to rain. Not heavy but enough. Looked out at the clouds and they were low and they were covering most of the sky. Debated doing a hurried pack up but decided against it, choosing to wait it out until it least got warmer, and hopefully get a break in the weather later. Glad I managed to put the cover on the kayak last night as it will hopefully keep most of the rain out.
Life jacket did not cut it as a pillow. Up at about 2:00 AM stuffing everything soft into a stuff sack and sleeping on that. During my rain delay I will explore other options.
10:30 Still raining, not heavy but consistent. Have finished my book, made a makeshift pillow, and now need to get up to pee. Up, made a quick run – checked on the boat and pulled it up a bit more, tightened tent, grabbed snack food that did not need cooking and more water, and back to the tent. Looks like it is socked in for the day so hope tomorrow brings sunshine to dry everything out. Will stay put for day and rest and read.
By 12:30 the rain quit, although the clouds looked ominous. Used the opportunity to dry out and re-stake the tent as the back corner was drawing water. Then went down and boiled some water and made coffee (coffee in bed no matter where you are is still a nice touch) and a beef mushroom soup for later. Since weather was still holding off, heated some river water and washed my hair and had a sponge bath. By then the wind picked up so we to back to the warmth of the tent which was drying out fast.
3:50 – Sun is breaking through, clouds are clearing out, Air Raid Siren goes off. Scramble out of tent and look for tornadoes. Nothing. Rude way to wake a guy from his nap.
By 5:30 the sky is clear, the sun is warm, and I wish I could find a way to break and set up camp in a hurry, as the evenings have been glorious. Have not mastered that skill as packing kayak is still a jigsaw puzzle, and easy places to land and set up are still too few are far in between. Had supper, sat in the sun and generally zoned out.
With the morning and afternoon to think, daydream and nap while hiding out from the rain, thought about how fortunate I am to even be able to try something like this. The support and humour my family and close friends have had during the various incarnations of planning and preparation. The concern and worry (or just plain Dad is nuts) that they hid – to humour my plan.
Also all the things that I am missing out on by being away. I am missing Deb’s 60th birthday on Sunday, and although she says it is no big deal – it is a milestone that desires proper recognition. Will have to make it up when I get back. (no – being away for a couple on months is not present enough). This is also the weekend of the Summer 3D archery shoot – and with the way my knee is recovering – probably could have done it all with a brace on. This is also probably the first time I would have had the time to help out – as I am sure Deb and Keelan are busy doing their part.
I am missing everyone, but am also finding that the little voice in my head is getting clearer, nicer, and less cynical – and that is a good thing.
May 25 – Almost Timeless
Up to a beautiful clear morning. Skies were clear most of night and as a result a wee bit cool when I woke up. Decided to snuggle back in and let the sun warm up the tent a bit. Beside the makeshift pillow worked wonderfully.
On the river by 10:30, complete with sunscreen on my shins, neck and arms. By 12:00 I could feel the burn coming back, and instead of taking off my paddling gloves and applying more sunscreen, I took off my t-shirt and threw it over my lower legs, and put on my light long sleeve and raised the collar. Seemed to work well enough.
Met my first person on the river – fisherman in a small punt with an electric motor. He had been traveling back and forth across the mouth of a little stream that entered the Missouri. Said he had been there three days and I was the only person he had seen. He was curious about my trip and did not realize that the River went to the Gulf of Mexico. He told me to safe and I continued onward. Passed under a road bridge a bit later, but during the entire time approaching and leaving, did not see a vehicle cross it. There was a ford king cab parked just past the bridge in a grassy pullout – but I don’t think they saw me – something about the motor running, music blaring, seats reclined and the articles of clothing hanging from the mirror.
Lisa sent a text laughing about all the things I had already lost. Well here’s another to add to the list. When reaching behind the seat for my camera, I must have caught my watch band on the gunnel – because it was gone the next I went to check the time. I did find it – when I stopped for the night – minus the pin for the strap. By that time I already figured I wouldn’t worry about it as it is somewhat useless out here. So I have tucked it away with my passport, and the ring from my right hand, which has fallen off a couple of time ( fingers shrinking ???)
Stopped for the night on a sand bar type island, just down the river from Brockton. If the weather holds and paddling is easy, I should be out of the Fort Peck Reservation by tomorrow, and into North Dakota by the next day.
And it has been a full week off work, and it has not crossed my mind at all. Usually when on vacation, it comes to the forefront several times. Maybe this transition will be easier than I thought. I have however thought of some of the people I have worked with – wondering if we will maintain contact.
