February 25, 2005 –

Continued to rain for most of the night – but by morning the rain had quit – but was still threatening. Dad said that after all the spicy food he had yesterday and after a few minutes in the bathroom this morning, he knew why the Cajun’s yelled the way they did (whoo whee).

Headed off early to New Orleans – and after fighting rush hour traffic – and going over and back on a toll bridge – finally ended up in the French Quarter about 10:00 A.M. Parking is going to cost us about $16.00 for the day so we may as well make the best of it. Wandered around in the French Quarter for about an hour and a half before returning to take a Grey Line Bus tour of New Orleans. By this time the sun had come out and it had turned into a very nice day – and exceeded the weatherman’s predicted high by about 7 degrees.

The bus tour was information filled – but unfortunately the bus was crowded and we were not able to sit together or see everything out of both sides of the bus. It did however give us some background on what we had been seeing in the French Quarter – as well as getting us to some of the further away places like the City Park, Garden District and one of the many Cemeteries.

With the average home in New Orleans being about 8 feet below sea level – the city by its location presents some interesting challenges. First there are natural bayous (backwaters) as well as levees and canals (both above and below ground) built throughout out the City in order to deal with the water from the Mississippi river and the Ocean. In many of the areas you can see the height of the water in the canals above the roofs of the houses. There are levees that have huge hurricane gates built into them (surrounding the lower end of the city and specific neighbourhoods) – that are closed when there is a hurricane threat – sealing the residential areas away. When it rains – like it did yesterday – there are a series of huge pumping stations that kick in and they are reported to be able to handle upwards of an inch rain water an hour in ideal conditions. (In 1993 this did not even come close to doing the job as over 30 inches of rain fell in an 18 hour period and much of the town flooded.) The average rainfall here is 60 inches a year. Some of the pumping stations are built in the middle of the freeways – with multiple large pipes running in the median area between the roads. Even given all this – there are areas (and some of them being very exclusive) that can not get flood insurance (from either state or federal governments) – and each area of the city that you can get insurance has specific rates that they are charged based on history and risk factors. It apparently can get very steep.

Another problem has to do with trying to build a city on what is basically a drained swamp. Pylons are driven down into the ground until they hit clay and then the foundation is built up the pylons. As a result there are buildings which have significantly shifted and visible leans to them. The first Custom’s building was supposed to be only one story high and pylons were driven into the ground accordingly. At the last minute they decided to change from the original building material to granite – which increased the planned weight of the building. However before the building could be completed – there were delays due to money problems and wars – and when it was finally resolved – the need for a Port Customs increased – so the building was re-drawn to be two floors – and then eventually three. Needless to say the foundations were not designed to handle this – and as a result you can easily see the 27 inch difference in height between one corner of the building to the other.

When New Orleans was first being built – because the land was recovered swamp – it was very scarce and therefore homes were taxed based on not only their width – but on the number of rooms including closets and hallways that they had. Therefore the homes for the most part – only one room wide but quite long – filling up all of the lot. A house with many rooms and closets was a sign of wealth. For the rest, their homes were mostly open spaces – and to get around the idea of closets – they built and used armours for their clothes. Many of the working class could not afford to build large homes on the small plots of land – so built what they called shotgun homes (small and straight – open the front door and back door and shoot a gun through without doing damage). Two families sharing one home with a wall in between (a duplex to us) is called a double shotgun. (Yah they have slang for everything – including the beautiful gold statue of Joan of Arc called Joannie on a Pony).

The streets around the French Quarter have a width of only 38 feet across from door to door of the shops and pubs. Add to this the room for narrow sidewalks (both sides) and cars – it is a tight fit (especially given the ability for people to walk around with alcohol). These are also the streets that trucks have to park on to deliver their goods – and where garbage has to be put as there are no back alleys. Many of the shops also have balconies that narrow down the streets even more. Maybe to compensate – the motorcycle police here drive mopeds rather than Harley’s. It should be noted that although all the bars allow you to carry your drinks around in non-glass containers – they still discourage drinking and driving – but they do have drive through Daiquiri shops??? The French quarter consists of mostly connected buildings two or three stories high with shops on the main floor and apartments and living quarters on the second and third. They have some of the longest continually rented apartments in the US. Nearly all of the buildings have balconies on the third floor and galleries on the second (they are wider than balconies and have posts down to the ground.) There is amazing ironwork (Spanish influence) on many of these. There is the occasional little walkway down between buildings leading to an inner courtyard but these are very few and far between.

Land and water problems also lead to the unique customs of burying their dead in crypts. There have been many pictures of these unusual structures and as well as their share of stories about vampires, ghosts and zombies. However we were unaware as to the rules regarding these crypts. For example – if your family is wealthy enough to afford a perpetual care crypt (very expensive) – then when it comes your turn to be laid to rest you would be placed into the crypt. These crypts have two basic bunk bed structures built off the ground in them. This however begs the question as to where the rest of your relatives would be buried (considering that there are many large families down here). Well, it seems that the previous occupants of the crypt would have their remains bagged up and laid on the floor (called a basement) and you would get the bunk – until it was someone else’s turn (So everyone turns out to be a bag of bones at some time – flattering). However if you were not well enough off to own a family crypt – you could lease one for a pre-paid period of time – from the church. The previous tenants could not be “evicted” but rather were moved to the back and bottom while you had use of the crypt. The previous occupants name plate was removed and placed on the side of the tomb – and your name plate could go on the front (for as long as you had paid up your money). The locals refer to this method as leasing or buying a fix-it-upper. The final method – had to do with a long wall crypt that the church built around the cemetery. The wall was about 9 feet deep and 8 feet high – and had four vaults stacked one on top of another. You could be interned there – and when your lease was done – the bones were simply pushed to the back – to make room for another leaseholder. Given all this I think that I would prefer to be cremated – however they say that for people that were born and raised in New Orleans – 80% prefer this method of burial – even though more conventional methods are now available to the outside of the city proper.

The bus tour also took us up to the city park (4th largest urban park in the world and far bigger than Central Park in New York). The park has many different users – including theatres, private schools, stadiums, golf courses, art galleries, sculpture gardens, soccer pitches, etc in addition to the traditional play and children’s areas. There was also the traditional duelling tree. New Orleans was known as the duelling capital of the south – and in one year (1848) they had more duels than days of the year – with 15 occurring on one Sunday morning. This despite the fact that duelling was illegal throughout the south. Duels it seemed could occur if there was insult or perceived insult to one’s honour – and with the southern emphasis on image – insults could not be tolerated. (It also appears that southern families had so much invested in image – that they would often have many people running around spreading rumours about what may or may not have been said that the social pressures to have to duel to protect ones honour were great. Interesting way to try and get rid of your enemies, husbands …). The park has been home to many shows and performances – including the Beatles, Doobie Bros, et. al. when they came to town. It is also almost the only location in town where you can find Spanish moss. It seems that in earlier days the people did not like the Spanish moss falling off the trees – and onto the street, clogging the drains, – so city crews went around and picked it all. New Orleans has one of the largest collections of Live Oak Trees – and almost all are free of moss (but may be covered in Mardi Gras beads).

After finishing the bus tour – headed out through the Market area. Keelan was in search for a particular Mardi Gras hat known as the dragon he had seen earlier – and after many shops – finally found the one he was looking for. Very bright (orange and purple), spiky, and with a “tail”. He wore it for the rest of the day – and got many compliments from people on the street. We each picked up a set of “beads” and Bucko Beaver (our mascot) was treated to ones that had Canadian flags on them. Dad also picked up an office – voodoo kit – in order to increase his management skills and influence – (yah right). Ended up at an interesting little restaurant (Oceana) and bar in the French Quarter – for an early supper. The food was wonderful (Po-Boys for the boys and (Catfish and Oyster) and Jambalaya for Mom) – and service was great – and the staff – were very … eclectic.

Headed back home through the famous New Orleans rush hour. Getting out of the French Quarter proved to be interesting – as there are many one way streets and stop signs and very few lights to move traffic through. It was a slow process – and you had the opportunity to do “another” tour of the French Quarter – and go by the Superdome again. Combine this with streets that are narrow and multitudes of Friday afternoon and evening pedestrians – it was slow going – and continued that way until we were out by the Airport. When we got back to the campground – it had filled up with many of the regulars. There were big pots of Crawfish being boiled and you could smell the Cajun spice throughout the campground. The boys had enough time to get a swim in before bed.

February 26, 2005 –

Up to a leisurely start this morning. The boys went down to the ponds and watched to locals catching crawfish. The kids were using homemade nets (set nets) while some adults had more sophisticated cages. Kids baited with wieners and adults with cow intestines. Many had several five gallon buckets filled with these crustaceans – throwing the smaller ones back to be caught another day. Apparently given the right environment they grow and multiple quickly. Obviously the local campers are all aware of this – and that explains why the big hot water vats and propane cookers appeared.

Headed off to do a swamp tour – operated by the Cajun Man – “Black” Guidry. “Black” may be better known for his role in the Kia car company Cajun swamp commercials. After some initial boat troubles – we got a two hour tour through the bayous around Terrebonne parish. Today we were sharing the local bayou with a fishing tournament – and although there were probably about 100 fishing boats on the water – we only ever saw two.

The petroleum companies created the major canals in the bayou early in the 1900’s in order to bring in their rigs and heavy equipment. The swamp was simply dredged and the dirt piled up to the sides to make the canals – which average 10 to 15 feet deep. Throughout the bayou – there are oilrig heads and pumping stations – varying in sophistication and vintage. Barges also use the canals to bring oil into little local refineries for processing. The canals and channels criss-cross throughout the swamp – and it would be very easy to get turned around in and lost. Much of the bayou is owned by a variety of private owners – and therefore certain canals can only be travelled on by permission.

“Black” also feeds a number of gators in the swamp – and they know the sound of his boat and voice – and will swim out for feed of chicken. This is the time of year when the gators up here are for the most part dormant but with yesterday being so warm – there were some out and about. They would swim out to the boat – and come several feet out of water to get the food. “Black” states that he feeds them most of the year – so that when the season comes to hunt them – they are full enough that they will not go for the hooked bait traps. He has names for each of the gators – and knows approximately which area each will be in. We met Mojo, Pee Wee and Alphonse. Although a bit hokey, it was fun so see their power as they jumped and snapped at the food.

At one point he stops in the middle of a quiet back water and pulls out his guitar and provides us with a rendition of a number of Cajun songs (appears that Black has a band that has also recorded an album or two). Although the setting was perfect (complete with a little gator patiently waiting to be fed) – the sound quality could have been better. He also has a Cajun accordion, made from nearly all recycled parts. Apparently accordions were quite common but during the wars when the Cajun could not buy accordions from Europe they made all that they could using drawer pulls, bits of pipe, wood from armoires with only the bellows needing to be imported. The boys were also lucky enough to see a couple of Nutria feeding on top of the swamp. Much of the green plants on the water of the swamp are Chinese hyacinth – introduced into the area at the beginning of the 1900’s to add some colour to the area for the world’s fair. Unfortunately the hyacinth grows so abundantly in the area that it quickly blocks the canals and makes the channels impassable. The plant is almost impossible to eradicate – and they have to spray and pull just to keep things passable.

Came back to the campground to our own feed of fresh shrimp and crawfish. With as cheap and as plentiful as the crawfish are here (down as low as $.39 a pound live if you had to buy them) – a person could get really used to this. Although not quite as good as lobster – and a lot pickier to eat – bang for dollar they are more than acceptable. Something appealing about the idea of going out to the swamp with a couple of chicken necks and in a couple of hours, come back with a huge feed of the little things. And simple to cook – you just boil them up in a pot with all the spices in the water – and then eat. And they are just as good hot or cold.   We are beginning to think that Dad has found another addiction…

February 27, 2005 –

Today is to be a slower day – with time to pack up and get caught up on schoolwork – etc. Mickey figures that we have to go back and get some more crawfish for supper tonight.

Seems that with all the kids and goings on last night – it took a toll on the campground. The bathrooms were all messed up, the heater in the pool no longer seemed to be working, and the place was generally in disarray. The kids still went for a swim first thing in the morning anyhow – and will try and fit in another one this afternoon.

The weather predictions for today and tonight are for some severe weather storms. Therefore during periods that the rain was not coming down – we took in the awning and pack up all non-essential items.

The boys did school work today interspersed with climbing on a 500-year-old Live Oak tree that dominates the area beside the pool. The trees down here are what you picture when you see tree swings and tree houses. Their branches spread out in all directions – and it is not unusual for the tree to be 10 to 12 feet around; 75 – 100 feet high with limbs that spread out another 100 – 150 feet. Although the boys could only climb up a short ways – they thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to play around it. The weather was better than expected and we even saw the sun for a few brief moments today.

Dad broke down and went out to buy some more crawfish for supper. This was from a little dine in / take out place in Gibson. The crawfish were more expensive – and hotter in Cajun spice. Dad thoroughly enjoyed them – but mom wants to buy a small amount of live ones and try them in more of a garlic spice – to see how they will taste.

By the time supper came around – most of the people who had come for the weekend – had headed for home – and the campground went back to its quiet self. All of us headed over for an evening swim and hot tub. The boys even jumped into the unheated outdoor pool on a dare from Dad. The locals thought they were crazy.

February 28, 2005 –

Up this morning to a clear, but cool day – despite all of the predictions of a severe storm warning overnight. Dad finished the last little bit of packing up – while the kids went to the pool for one last swim.

Headed off north and into Baton Rouge – and the Louisiana State University’s Rural Life Museum. Although we had only considered this as a maybe see – we were very pleased that we had stopped. The Rural Life Museum consists of the Windrush working plantation; a selection of Folk Architecture (including shotgun and Acadian Houses); and a large barn style complex with hundreds of artefacts. The collection inside the barn was incredible with many things that we had not seen elsewhere. Probably the one thing that caught everyone interest were the Cast Iron Coffins from the 1850 – 1880’s. Original newspaper advertisements for this metallic burial cases boasted that they were “air tight and indestructible … for preserving the mortal remain of the departed for an indefinite period of time above or below ground”. University staff exhumed three coffins in 1993 and the remains inside remained intact – with the clothing, jewellery and flowers well preserved and the bodies mummified.

Interesting as well, were wreaths made of feathers and paint; thread; or relatives hair – designed to look like floral arrangements and often used as memorials. There was one of the first vacuum cleaners although I’m not sure it was easy to use – as it required the user to manually pull up on a lever to create the suction. A horse drawn peanut roasting vendor caught Mickey’s eye. Among the medical equipment was a beautiful carved oak examining table complete with the ability to be raised and lowered at both ends, drawers for supplies and lion heads on each corner that had removable little tubes in their mouths that Keelan thought could be used as toothpick holders. There was a good selection of children’s toys reflecting the affluence of the plantation families. In most other areas the children were busy helping out on the farm and so toys were limited crude and hand made. Here there were porcelain dolls, metal stoves, tractors etc and even a miniature railroad…well not that miniature, as the kids could ride on it.

The Museum also has one of the oldest slavery interpretation exhibits. This includes some of the articles in regard to Governor Bienville 1724 legislation knows as Code Noir or “Black Code”. Many of the articles in the legislation were designed to protect the slaves – including that they had to be properly clothed and fed, cared for in sickness and old age – and must not be shackled and tortured. This legislation had Louisiana standing alone among the southern states in the treatment of slaves – although the entire idea of slavery is repugnant to current thought. As a result, plantations often had sick houses that were designed to look after the ill workers – and it was required that the Plantation’s overseer or his wife provide care to these individuals. In the old plantation buildings – the sick house in many ways was nicer and more substantial than the slave homes. It must also be remembered that slaves were essential to economic prosperity and therefore keeping them in good health was good business.

Next to the Museum, is Windrush Gardens – which are part of the original Burden plantation estates, bequeathed to LSU. Steele Burden – a renowned landscape designer, designed the 25 acres of gardens. The gardens are designed in the flora that was traditionally used in the 19th century plantation gardens – complete with period bronze and marble statues. We enjoyed briefly walking through the gardens – and envied the private residences that border the gardens – with its beautiful setting.

Back on the road again, north from Baton Rouge – and crossed the Mississippi River and up the scenic drive to Natchez, Mississippi. Pulled into the State Park in Natchez – which had well spaced out sites – in a large mature tree setting. Had time to walk briefly down to the lake – and were able to discover a large turtle shell – that the raccoons had a feast on. Unfortunately it was so frail that when it was moved – the bone plates did not hold together and therefore we were not able to look at bringing back to the RV for a closer.

March 1, 2005 –

A wonderfully clear night – in an area with no traffic noise – no trains – and only the sounds of the occasional owl. Off today to Vicksburg National Military Park – commemorating the Civil War battles for control of the Mississippi River. The park has as 16 mile driving tour of the battle lines, reconstructed trenches and battlements, cannons and over 1300 monuments and markers. General Ulysses Grant led the campaign for union control of the Mississippi river. The Confederate forces held off a siege by the Union Army for 47 days (some of the town residents digging and living in elaborate caves to be protected from the bombardments) before surrendering on July 4, 1863 (same day as Lee began his retreat from Gettysburg). Vicksburg is perched on steep bluff along the eastern bank of the Mississippi river and the park has hills with steep water worn gorges (quite a change from the flat land we have been travelling through for the past month).

In addition the park has on display the restored USS Cairo – an armoured, flat-bottomed, paddle wheeled gunboat. The boat was sunk on December 12, 1862 by an electrically detonated ‘torpedo’ (first boat in history to be sunk by a mine) in the Yazoo River approximately 10 miles north of Vicksburg. The ship sank in less than 12 minutes – however all 175 crewmembers were able to escape. Although the Cairo was covered with upwards of 2 1/2 inches of external iron armour above the waterline – it was not protected below the waterline and therefore susceptible to this type of attack. The mines were essentially a 5-gallon glass jar filled with black power and anchored in the river. A person on shore who connected the wires to make an electrical spark in the powder would then detonate the mine.

In 1956 the Cairo was located in the Yazoo River (with the use of a compass, not to follow directions but to detect the massive amount of iron by the fluctuations of the compass) and then the massive feat of trying to raise it (eventually came up in three sections) began. Then came the task of moving the boat and restoring it. In addition to the Cairo itself – the number of naval artefacts recovered from the river’s mud was phenomenal. The kids seemed to have a good time looking at all of the intricacies of the iron side gunboat – especially after seeing the USS Alabama.

Continued into town, and at the recommendation of the Gisler family- went to the Walnut Hills Restaurant. It serves dinner (lunch time) in a round table fashion where the meal of the day is placed on the centre of the table and you help yourself to the choices provided. Unfortunately – we were too late to catch the round table – but had a variety of selections (catfish, chicken and dumplings, steamed mustard greens, blue hull peas and candies yams) – and Mickey really enjoyed his spicy seafood gumbo.

Left Vicksburg, to return to the campground via the Natchez Trace Parkway. The Trace – which means trail – extends from Nashville, Tennessee to Natchez, Mississippi and is maintained by the National Park Service. The parkway roughly follows the old trail used by Native Americans, explorers, soldiers and settlers. In certain areas you can see where the continued foot traffic – had compressed the ground and created ravine pathways. The road itself runs through the green lush hills – and although you may be close to houses and communities – you really do not see them. It is a nice relaxing drive – especially after the hectic drives on the highways.

Along the parkway we stopped at Emerald Mound – the second largest temple mound in the United States. The mount was constructed and used by the Mississippians (ancestors of the Natchez Indians) from about 1300 to 1600 AD. The mound is about 8 acres in size and supported temples, ceremonial structures and burial complexes for its civic and religious leaders. We climbed to the top of the main structure – and then Mickey had to run across the field and climb the other structure to look back at the mound.

On the way home – came across an old rundown family cemetery off at a far corner of a field beside the Parkway. The giant gnarled trees gave the cemetery a spooky type appearance. Several of the tombstones indicated that the a lot of the people died during the same year (1853) – and were for the most part children – so we could only speculate that some type of disease must have passed through the area.

Prior to pulling into the campground – Dad spotted another Crawfish seller and ended up buying 4 lbs ($10.00) of the swamp bugs. These crawfish were for the most part larger – and even spicier than the last batch we had. Also the boys ended up not eating many – so dad had to work hard to put a major dent into the large pot full. He still seems to be enjoying this cheap seafood alternative – and will have to see how the remainder taste for breakfast …

March 2, 2005 –

Up to a cloudy morning with the occasional rain shower. Dad tried a couple of crawfish for a spicy breakfast eye-opener – which does seem to perk you right up. We may have to start some form of new tradition.

Drove into Natchez to see some of the historic Antebellum Homes. Prior to the Civil War – Natchez was hometown to more millionaires than any other place in the United States. These people made their money from the cotton – that was usually grown on the Louisiana side of the Mississippi River. The Natchez side – is hillier and became the community for the rich. However the Civil War changed this – with the cotton crops and plantations being destroyed by both the Confederate and Union soldiers. (The homes in Natchez were saved from this due to not being where the crops were located.) After the war, many of the people were without any money – and the homes were lived in were left to decay – as there was not the money to tear them down or rebuild. Just as things were starting to get back together and the cotton market was picking up – the cotton Boll Weevil spread through the area – and decimated any gains that may have been made – to the point were locals said that the depression was almost not noticed in the area.

However in1932 the local Garden Club started the tradition of the Spring Pilgrimage – opening up the historic homes to public tours. For a fee you were made welcome in their homes with true southern hospitality. This has become such a hit that the five week Spring Pilgrimage now there are over 30 homes available for tours – and the hostesses of the homes are dressed in period costume. They now also offer a three-week fall pilgrimage as well as special tours at Christmas time. Between the tours, pageants, balls, and plays that are offered, the locals say that almost everyone beyond the age of four is in costume and plays a role most of the time. About a dozen antebellum homes are open the rest of the year for tours but without the period costumed hosts.

We took our own driving tour through the area – and saw about a dozen of the homes – all of which are in phenomenal shape. There are also crews out working to clean up the lawns and garden in anticipation of the Spring Pilgrimage – which starts on March 12. There were homes with many different architectural influences. Drove down to Natchez Under the Hill (the original end of the Natchez Trace) with its history of being a wild and dangerous area. The civilized and cultured people lived up on the hill away from the docks. Today the area has floating riverboat casino, and a couple of interesting restaurants and bars.

We then took a tour of Longwood Manor. Longwood is located in the forest in the outskirts of Natchez and was conceptualized to be build as an octagonal “oriental villa”. It was planned by Haller Nutt and his wife – and designed by Samuel Sloan – a Philadelphia architect with construction commencing in 1860. Nutt had a series of plantation holdings and this was his third entertaining residence (owned at the same time as well as numerous working residences and plantations). The four main floors were octagonal in shape -with the fifth floor being a solarium and the sixth an observatory. The house was to have 32 large rooms – each with its own entrance onto a balcony or veranda. On the inside core is a giant rotunda that was to be used to provide ventilation and light. Connecting the floors was to be a spiral staircase – and crowning the mansion is a Byzantine-Moorish dome with a 24-foot finial. The entire home was to be about 30,000 square feet of liveable space.

The dream home was proceeding quickly – and was the envy of many of the people in the area. However in April of 1861 when the civil war broke out – the workmen, who were from the north, set down their tools and headed back home. Thankfully the outer shell of the home was completed so protected the structure of the home from the elements. Mr. Nutt finished off the basement level with the help of some local workman – and moved his family in to wait out what he believed to be a short war. The war caused losses of the family income due to crops and plantations being burned of over three million dollars – and the family did not have the resources to complete the home. Nutt himself died a few years later reportedly of pneumonia although many say of a broken heart not being able to see his dream home finished. The family continued to live in the basement level throughout this time never being able to afford to start or finish what was to have been the real living and entertaining space. The family owned the house until 1968 when it was sold to a foundation that deeded it to the Pilgrimage Garden Club – who continues to maintain the house. In 1970 the Longwood became a National Historic Landmark – which requires it to be maintained in the condition in which it was found – therefore unfinished. The tools still rest where they lay on the second floor – and only the basement furnished. It stands as a magnificent reminder of the disappointment of dreams unfulfilled.

From there we drove to the Grand Village of the Natchez Indians. Although the Emerald Mound, which we saw yesterday, was more spectacular in size, the museum and interpretive exhibits provided a lot more history on the mounds and the ceremonial centers. The Natchez Indian social system was based on a nobility and common class. Foremost among the nobility was the Sun family, and the chief was called the “Great Sun” and lived at the Grand Village. The commoners, sometimes referred to as “stinkards,” comprised the bulk of the population and lived on scattered family farms. At the death of the chief, his spouses and those that had pledged their lives to him, as well as many others who wished to have their status enhanced – were strangled in order to accompany the Great Sun into the after world. LaSalle first encountered the Natchez nation in 1682 and initially the relationship with the French was positive. However, in the early 1700’s war broke out between Natchez and the French. Today, there are very few Natchez people living in the area.

Headed back to the campground, where the boys went on about an hour hike in the sprinkling rain – while mom started the pack up of things. Everyone had pizza for supper – however Dad finished off his crawfish – before partaking in the pizza. Oh well – he will probably be able to get one more order in before he leaves the bayou area…

March 3, 2005 –

A move day today and with the rain continuing throughout the night – the ground was very wet with pools of standing water everywhere. We backtracked our way to Baton Rouge and then west to Catfish Heaven Aqua Farm and Campground – outside of St. Martinsville. The plan was to set up the camp and then go into Longfellow Evangeline State Park.

Unfortunately, just as we were about to leave – we noticed that the upper window on the Motor Home on the driver’s side had been shattered – by a rock sometime today. While Dad went up to pick up the glass pieces, Mom went to check on possible options to get it repaired. Given that we are travelling with the interior storm windows – and only the exterior window broke – we did not have glass in the kids sleeping area. However – we wanted to clean up the glass and get the area covered with plastic – as the skies were still looking fairly dark. Mom returned with a piece of tarp – courtesy of the campground – and the name of a shop that would take the RV in tomorrow and replace the window with Plexiglas. As we have these windows covered all the time – Plexiglas will probably work out better.

Finished up with just enough time to catch the last tour of the Acadian Home (circa early 1800s) at Longfellow Evangeline State Park. The guide of the house – was quiet a character – and was in fact a distant relative of the original owners. Unlike many others of the south, the civil war did not seem to be a big influence on these smaller holdings. They had cattle, sugar cane and cotton. However, in the 1870’s they were ravaged by yellow fever, typhoid and flood from which the family never recovered and the plantation passed on to a variety of others until the mid 1960’s. It is amazing to see a house that old of homemade brick (clay and what else?? Spanish moss!) and wood still in good shape – cypress wood of course. As we did not get a chance to see everything before the Park closed – we will probably return tomorrow to see the rest of the areas and demonstrations. However the one older lady – said that we should stop at the Bird Sanctuary at Lake Martin – just down the road from the campground. The area is a rookery – and at its height there are over 200 species of wading birds nesting in the area.

Drove down to the rookery – and the number of egrets, spoonbills and other birds making nests in the branches of the swamps was amazing. More and more birds were flying in all the time and with each flock – there was a loud rustling in the trees as the birds jockeyed for position. We met a local wildlife photographer who indicated that things were actually quiet right now – but by mid-April the sound of the birds with all the young ones screaming for their food made it almost deafening.

Headed to Breaux Bridge – and Mulates – the ‘original’ Cajun restaurant for food and music. Keelan had Alligator bites; Mickey had a shrimp salad and seafood gumbo; Dad had the seafood platter, while mom had the special catfish with ettouffle sauce. The food was wonderful, and the music lively – however Mickey’s cold was getting the better of him so we headed home and got both kids into bed early.