March 25, 2005-

Had a little light rain overnight and again this morning – but I guess that is better than the 6 inches of snow in Flagstaff – 140 miles away. We may have to start looking at alternate routes home, if the frequency of the snowstorms to the north of us – keeps up.

Backtracked to Florence and on to Coolidge and Casa Grande Ruins National Monument. (Finally able to figure out the difference between a National Park and a National Monument -no, not a historical event or having a man made structure but simply pure politics… a park is made by an act of congress – whereas a monument is done by presidential order). This site – like the Gila Cliff dwellings – were made by the Hohokam Indians. Rather than being a cliff home – Casa Grande is a large permanent compound – with what was originally a 7-foot high wall all the way around it. The walls and building were made a concrete like substance known as Caliche (which was found in layer of hardpan material – several feet below the ground). The Hohokam mixed ground up caliche with water to produce a sticky mud like material that they used in construction. The building style was fairly ingenious – they would build up a wall segment up to 30 inches in height – continuing around the perimeter of the building – and by the time they completed the first round – the area would be dry and they could add another 30 inches. The floor or roof supports in the smaller buildings were made from desert trees (mesquite), and then saguaro ribs laid at right angles, covered with reeds and grasses something similar to a mat formation – and then finished off with a layer of caliche both to harden and waterproof the structure.

Casa Grande – essentially means Great House – which is part of what makes this site unique. In the complex are numerous smaller buildings – one three story structure and then the large four story building. The Casa Grande (largest building) used nearly 3000 tones of caliche in it alone. The floor and roof beams in this structure were made from imported woods such as pine, fir and juniper – taking from the mountains over 50 miles away. As the Hohokam did not have horses or oxen – it is believed that they carried and floated these trees down the rivers to the area. Although they are not certain of the exact purpose of the structure – evidence tends to point to it housing an important religious or political leader. There are site lines in the upper structures that line up with the solstice sunset, a lunar alignment with when the moon is at its furthest point (once every 18 1/2 years), as well as the ability to track on an inner wall the sun and moon movement – in order to mark important times of the year.

The Hohokam were primarily an agricultural society – and they seemed to learn that the secret to agriculture in the desert was irrigation. Therefore using basic stone tools and physical labour – they dug hundreds of miles of canals across the desert – being able to use the slight contours of the desert to move their water. Evidence of these canals can still be seen (not sure if we would be able to duplicate this task today without the engineers and surveyors making many mistakes). The Hohokam also seemed to have an organized system – where each farmer along the canals would receive water several times over their growing season – in an agreed upon communal run canal system. There is no archeologically evidence of wars or squabbles between the people – so the system seems to have worked will. These canals allowed the Hohokam to cultivate corn, beans, squash, cotton and other traditional desert crops (the edible seeds from the mesquite, paloverde and ironwood trees, and tepary beans). These desert foods were especially important during times of drought. From the upper “penthouse” of the Casa Grande – they could see many miles of these canals so this person may have had a roll in determining how and when the water was distributed based on the sun based calendar.
The Hohokam villages were not isolated communities – but had extensive trading networks with native peoples to the north and south. The Casa Grande complex seems to have been the focal point for social interactions and celebrations of many villages in the region. There is evidence that the platform mounds and ball courts that could house several hundred spectators – seem to indicate this was a meeting centre.

It is not sure where the Hohokam went or why – as by the time the Spanish entered the area – it is reported that all of these vast villages were abandoned. Some speculate that either extended drought or conversely floods that destroyed the canal systems – forced them to leave. There does not appear to be any evidence of mass disease – or of their culture being assimilated into other cultures to the south.

After completing our tour of Casa Grande – headed into Florence. On the east side of the road running through Florence – are miles of different prison, and detention facilities. They also have a big Criminal Justice Building – with secure court rooms etc. so that the trials can be held close at hand. The other side of the road has a large mobile and modular home park – extending over a mile in length and at least 7 rows deep. Many of these homes appear to be permanent residents – housing either worker at the correctional facility – or spouses of the inmates. We made a quick stop at the Arizona Prison Outlet store. An interesting little place that had many of the hand crafted products made by prisoners in the facilities in Florence. They had handbags and check book covers – made from licence plates – some wonderful leather and silver work, some native art, and some prison issued and made clothing ($5.00 heavy demin jackets, etc.) Ended up buying a package of oatmeal cookies that were truly wonderful (has Martha Stewart had an influence with her period of incarceration?).

Headed back to the resort with time for Mom and the boys to have another swim and hot tub before supper. After supper – Mom and Keelan went down to the clubhouse to participate in animal races – a dice betting game with little animals on a large board (i.e. – Humpy the camel, Horny the antelope, Stripes the Zebra, Liar the Lion etc.). Despite his cheering and others hoping for him, Keelan discovered that the odds are not always in his favour and lost all his races. (hard to be humbled for someone who is usually so luck at cards and other games of chance).

March 26, 2005 –

Up to a pancake breakfast at the resort. For $2.00 a head, we all filled up with pancakes, scrambled eggs, sausages, and bacon. Ate way too much so we decided that we needed to go out and get some exercise. Headed off into Mesa – and their 1600 booth flea market. Spent a couple of hours wandering around the rows of the market. After awhile it seemed that we were seeing the same booths again – as it is so big that all things tend to blend together. Managed to pick up a couple of small things (have you ever known Dad to not get something at a Flea Market). This one did have a nice feature, in that it opened at 7:00 AM and there were booths that served plastic glasses of beer – so it was a real toss-up if you walked around with a hot mocha or a cold brew – prior to 10:00 AM.

From Mesa we headed back up the Apache Trail and into the Superstition Mountains and the supposed location of the Legendary Lost Dutchman Mine. The local Pima natives called the mountain “Ka Katak Tami” or The Crooked Top Mountain. It towers 3000 feet over the Sonoran Desert floor and can often have several feet of snow on it during the winter. In the 1860’s the local farmers mistook the natives reverence for the mountain as fear and hence named the mountain Superstition Mountain. There are many “stories” as to the origins and existence of the Lost Dutchman’s Mine. In 1891 a prospector by the name of Jacob Waltz, died in the home of Julia Thomas without ever revealing the source of the 48 pounds of rich gold ore found under his bed – although he left many hints in regard to the location in the Superstition Mountains. Since that time fake maps, embellished stories and active imaginations were the foundations of many of the stories around the location of the mine. The rugged terrain in the Superstition Wilderness area is such that a systematic search of the area is almost impossible to complete – and many people have died or become lost looking for the mine. Throughout the years there have been over 120 people who have claimed to know the location of the mine – but so far no one has come out with the valuable ore. In 1983 the US government closed the area to mineral claims – to comply with Wilderness Area Act – however many people still continue to look.

After a brief stop at the Museum and an examination of their restored 20 Stamp Mill – and a history of the areas we continued up the road to the Goldfield Ghost Town (and tourist trap). This is an old mining town that has been converted into a number of shops, stores and restaurants. Some of the antique vehicles and equipment lying around the area are really unusual and add to the “rust”ic feel.

During the 1890’s – Goldfield was a booming community with a population of 5000 people, and over 50 working mines in the area. Today the town has “gunfights” every hour, a replica saloon and bordello, train rides, mine tours and a church – where services and weddings are held. Although there is no entrance fee to Goldfield – each activity has a cost – so you can pick and choose. (Let me be clear – the Bordello – is a historical exhibit – and although your tour guides are dressed in period costumes – its focus is on providing a historical account of the role of bordellos in the west). The boys enjoyed the reptile exhibit – and there was a small pottery shop that we all managed to find something at – for a reasonable price. It was a nice sunny afternoon – so walking around the area and just taking in what was going on – was very enjoyable.

Returned to the campground in time for another swim before supper – which was a large smoked turkey, heated up on the barbeque complete with fresh asparagus (Isn’t spring wonderful). Made time to play Canasta tonight – and try out the automatic 6 deck card shuffler that Dad picked up at the flea market. Mom’s not so sure about it especially when Dad and Keelan started out with 11 wild cards dealt in their hand!

March 27, 2005 –

For Easter Sunday – we decided to take a drive around the Apache Trail. This windy road circles the Superstition Mountains – going over several passes as it winds its way through the Tonto National Forest. There seemed to be a lot of people out for an Easter Drive – and many of the picnic areas and beaches were packed. You heard me right – beaches. There are a number of lakes up in these steep mountains created by a series of dams including the Roosevelt Dam. These are obviously popular locations for the locals – both for swimming and fishing. The steep canyons that the water has filled make for some interesting shorelines – at times looking more like rivers.

The road started off being fairly wide – but as we proceeded up the mountain passes – it narrowed to a windy two-lane road. The motorbikes and sport cars seemed to be loving the day – especially since it was sunny and over 75 degrees.

Our first stop was at Tortilla Flat – with a permanent population of 3 people. There is however a small store and restaurant pub that are quite unique. The walls of the pub and store are lined with donated dollar bills – and they counted over 80,000 worth of bills a number of years ago – and feel that this has probably exceed the $100,000 mark by now. The seats at the bar in the restaurant are saddles – and there is a large outdoor patio with live music. The wide spot in the road is complete with a little museum, a monument depicting it as an original stagecoach stop, and a mailbox listing all the owners of community – since its inception. We split a prickly pear ice cream before continuing on – through the water that was running over the road at the far end of town.

From here the road proceed up another pass – and this time it narrowed to a gravel road – with at times being single lane. There were multiple spots where we had stop at a wide point to allow a vehicle to pass in the other direction. The switchbacks coming down the canyons were truly marvellous – however at times you could see where the water ran over the road during the rainstorms. Dad was truly enjoying the road – as only a mountain driver could…. The running water reminds us that it is spring and a wet one at that leading to beautiful colours and hundreds of wildflowers so the drive was really incredible.

Passed by Roosevelt Dam – and turned South on Highway 188, a more travelled paved road. The road passes by Theodore Roosevelt Lake with many recreational sites and RV parks. Stopped at the Tonto National Monument – a Salado Indian Cliff Dwelling. Only the lower ruins are open to the general public – and the larger upper ruins require a ranger escort. There is some speculation that the Salado’s may not have been a separate tribe – but rather a melting pot of some of the other tribes in the region – taking the best of all the other cultures (architecture, canal building, pottery making, etc.) It appears that the Salado Indian stayed in the Tonto Valley for several generations before moving on in the 1450s to locations unknown. The information center did have some interesting clothing and sandal artefacts that we had not seen before – made from the fibres of a cactus. Although we did not get to see the upper ruin (the tour had already left for today, and the one for the following day was fully booked) it is reported to be similar in architecture – however had the benefit of having a natural spring water source close to the dwellings – which made this higher and more remote location more desirable. We climbed up to the lower ruins – and despite there being no evidence of wars or battles – the Salado had built their homes in a very defensible location. The entrance in was via a ladder that could be pulled up into the cliffs – making it almost impossible to get into the dwellings. Although there were indications that many of the Salado villages were burnt – it appeared that this occurred long after they were deserted.

We thought we would check with the kids to see if they were getting bored with seeing these ancient ruins – but the both indicated that they weren’t and Mickey still seems thoroughly enthralled by the cliff dwellings. As we were leaving the dwellings – one of the people coming up – indicated that they had seen a small rattlesnake on the path and marked the location with a red rock. We were anxious to see if we could find it – however were disappointed that we did not locate it on the way down.

Travelled south on Highway 188 until we reached Route 60 and the town of Miami. The area around Miami and Superior are the locations of large open pit mines – some active and some dormant. The tiered slag piles stretch out for miles – with some of them being grass covered. Thankfully the rest of the area has been protected – so that the ruggedness of the Superstition Mountains will be maintained.

Home in time so that the kids could get in a last swim before we leave tomorrow. Went to the clubhouse for their Ice Cream Social tonight (Ice cream twice in one day – boy are we getting spoiled). Many of the locals were in the process of saying good-bye as people are starting to head home this week. (The Snowbird migration north) Some of the ones that were staying wanted to know how long we were staying around (I think they were looking for players for Canasta) and seemed genuinely disappointed that we were leaving the next morning.

March 28, 2005-

Up this morning – with there being a high wind warning for Northern Arizona this morning and early afternoon. Got most of the packing up done then while Dad was downloading the web page – the boys headed to the swimming pool for one last swim. Dad loaded up the rest of the motor home, attached the Suzuki – and picked Mom and the boy’s up at the pool house by the main gate. The people at the campground were busily pulling out yellow and orange coloured daisies. These daisies – although very pretty have the ability to get into every nook and cranny – and apparently the seeds can stay dormant for up to 10 years until the conditions are right to grow and bloom again – as it has been this year. Therefore they were pulling them up before they could go to seed – as the daisies have been known cause extensive damage by destroying concrete and building foundations.

Skirted around the outskirts of Phoenix – and then headed north towards Flagstaff. Started out at an elevation of 1700 ft – and went up and over several passes – extending up to 4500 ft. Pulled into Camp Verde in the early afternoon – and got set up while the boys completed their lessons. Mom and the boys went and played a game of mini-golf while Dad went to do some exploring – and pick up some things for supper.

The campground here is filling up quickly – with people parked very close together. However this resort seems to have a lot of activities going on – and as a result seems to draw a larger crowd. As we are just here for a couple of days – and primarily to see some nearby ruins – the crowds shouldn’t be a problem. Besides – there is a local trade and sell in the campground tomorrow that could be interesting to see.

March 29, 2005 –

There was a light rain overnight – and Keelan has developed a bit of a cough and slight cold. Up this morning and into Camp Verde – and a number of shops there. There was a cowboy and antique shop there – that despite its outward experience had an incredible inventory of things. In addition to the new and used saddles, tack, and cowboy boots (some complete with dead scorpions inside) – they had some wonderful antiques – and prehistoric native artefacts. The owner of the store is a collector – and many of the items are not for sale – but are fun to look at.

Continued on to Montezuma Castle National Monument. Early settlers to the area assumed that the structure was Aztec in origin and there erroneously named it Montezuma Castle. The Sinaqua people – an agriculturally based tribe, in fact built the dwelling. In the 12th century over a series of years they build a five-story twenty room dwelling 100 feet above the Beaver River valley. As short distance away – and lower down is the badly deteriorated foundation of a six story 45 room structure – nicknamed the apartment. Up until 1951 the buildings were accessible to the public through a series of ladders – however the Park Service now restricts entry (who they let in we did not find out). To climb up to the ruins you need three 25-foot ladders – to climb up a series of ledges. Once inside – another three ladders are need to go through the five-story structure.

There were a considerable number of people with children at Montezuma Castle – as it seems that it is spring break for several of the states around Arizona. This came as somewhat of a shock – and Keelan said it felt more crowded than Disneyworld. From here – we proceeded to Montezuma Well – which is a lake in a limestone sinkhole in the middle of the desert. The spring that fills the well produces about 1.5 million gallons of water a day – and there are cliff dwellings built into the walls of the sink hole – as well as signs of Pueblos being built on top of the hill. There is evidence that the earliest possible settlement in the pit houses were at about 600 A.D. Although the well supports some aquatic life – the carbon dioxide levels are too high to support fish. The water in the well escapes the sinkhole via a swallet and travels 150 feet underground before emerging in a channel beside Beaver Creek. Some of the prehistoric inhabitants used the water from the well for irrigation by digging a ditch where the swallet appears and channelling it over 4 miles to irrigate their crops. By the 1200’s the locals were irrigating upwards of 100 acres of corn, beans, squash, and cotton. The lake produced by the well and the surrounding rock walls – is very picturesque and would have been a very enchanting and sacred to live beside.

There were also the covered ruins of a pit house on the road from the well – where we stopped for a light lunch. The fields were so filled with yellow flowers it was hard to believe that we in the desert and how unusual this year is.

Continued back into Camp Verde – to look at some of the quaint shops. Apparently, last year the main street was still two gravel lanes – complete with hitching posts, etc. They have now paved Main Street – and are renovating many of the old buildings – or building new ones in the old style – to house trendy shops. One of the jewellery stores strongly recommended that we go to a deli next door and have some Baked Potato soup. Even though we had just recently eaten – we decide to split a bowl – and a drink. The soup was wonderful – and it will probably be something that we add to our home repertoire.

Continued back home – and had an early supper and early bed for the boys so that they can hopefully shake their cold. We have also made a decision to spend a couple of extra days here – rather than going to the Grand Canyon – hopefully to allow things to warm up a bit, get rid of some of the crowds – and allow for a couple of more leisurely days for the kids to get healthy.

March 30, 2005 –

Today was a nice sunny day – although there was a bit of a wind blowing. Mom and the boys went to the clubhouse to do school work, while Dad went into town for a grocery and Kleenex shop. (Keelen has already gone through an entire box of Kleenex today – and his energy level comes and goes – but seems to be hanging in there.)

It was nice to have a relax day – and get a number of things done around the RV. Dad mounted the bike rack that he picked up at the second hand store (a three dollar purchase that means we don’t have to move our bikes every time we move…Mom is delighted), and did some organization around the RV. Seems that the longer we travel – the more things that we can think of that can make things easier.

March 31, 2005 –

Again a slow start to the day – with Keelan feeling very sluggish and stuffed up. Spent the morning doing bits and pieces of schoolwork and getting moving. By lunchtime it was felt that we were feeling well enough that we could go and see the Tuzigoot National Monument – in Cottonwood.

On the way we stopped at the side of the road to get some pics of the poppies – that filled a recently tilled area with a brilliant orange colour. These plants seem amazingly hardy – with long straight roots going down in search of water.

As we drove into the plains around the ruins – we went through a tailing field that was terraced around the hill that the ruins are situated on. The tailings are from a copper mine that closed in the 1950’s. The tailings were transported via redwood pipe several miles – before being distributed into flatten terraces. As it is primarily bedrock with all organic material being removed – nothing grows on it (or could it be all the now illegal chemicals that they used to remove the copper from the ore) and it has an orange tinge to it. Only where a little soil has blown and caught on the rocks between the terraces are there grasses or the occasional cactus growing.

The Tuzigoot ruins are again an example of Sinagua stone masonry Pueblo construction built on a small ridge overlooking the fertile Verde River Valley. As with Montezuma Castle – this area was inhabited from about 1000 to 1400 AD. The pueblo structure was about 500 feet long and 100 feet wide at its largest point. There were 86 ground story rooms, and possibly as many as 15 second story rooms in the structure. Entry into most of the rooms was via a ladder through a roof top hatch and usually there was one family living per room – with other rooms being used for storage – communal meeting areas, etc. At the height of community there were more than 225 people living in the pueblo.

The Tuzigoot site has a commanding view of Verde valley. The sheer size of structures arching their way over the ridge makes it an impressive site. The roof of one of the structures was re-constructed and it is easy to visualize the Sanagua grinding corn or weaving baskets while sitting on the roofs.

From the ruins we headed from the valley floor (3100 feet) to the old mining town of Jerome (5243 feet) up a windy road. The mine in Jerome closed in the early 1950’s and the town basically became deserted. The mine was commercially successfully for its rich copper and gold ores – some very close to the surface. In fact the Hopi Indians originally brought the Spanish explorers to the site of the deposits as early as 1583. In 1882 the Verde Copper Company set up a mining camp on the steep slopes of what is known as Cleopatra Hill. At the peak of its production during the 1920’s – the population of Jerome reached 15,000. In the 1930’s the town began to “slowly” slide down the mountainside – primarily as a result of poor construction, gravity, and the instability of the mountain. However over the last several years – the area has become a popular arts community – with many studios and boutiques and a commercial ghost town – complete with horse carriage rides, etc. One popular tourist attraction is the Sliding Jail – which slid more than 230 feet down the mountainside – before coming to rest at a lower level (still in one functional piece).

The roads through the town are very narrow – many of them being one way – as they transverse their way up the mountain. Shops, houses and retaining walls come right to the roads edge – with little openings for garages, etc. The galleries and antique shops have some very unique collections – (bowls made from slices of fruit; wooden puzzle boxes in various animal shapes; spectacular hand blown glass vases; etc). However it is probably the vista views from this town that convinced people to move back. The one park ranger said that in the 1950’s you could pick up the properties here for almost nothing – whereas now – the same homes are in the $300,000 range. It is probably a good thing that this area does not see snow very often – as the roads and streets would be impossible to travel on if slippery.

Continued back to the campground – and an early supper and Survivor. Keelan was in bed early – and hopefully will be able to shake his cold. Mickey stayed up a bit later – reading his book in bed with Mom.