April 15, 2005 –

We are officially in mourning – in exactly one month our odyssey ends. Well that’s the last day of our leave of absences with Dad returning to work on Monday May 16th (mom the day after due to her part-time status) – although we will be home sooner, in our minds that date has always been official end date to our adventure. We are looking forward to seeing friends and family again but it is sad to realize we are almost done … for this time….

Off to Salt Lake City today. Along the way we went over a pass that topped out at over 7500 feet, with significant snowdrifts all around. We did not bother to stop and play in the snow but worked on cranking out some schoolwork before a tour of Temple Square. We got in early enough to our campground (K.O.A) that we decided to forgo getting all set up and do our touring today and leave tomorrow. The KOA is expensive compared to what we have been paying so we will only make it a one-night stay. So … we stopped, plugged in and headed out on our tour.

Temple Square is well set out for tourists and people looking at converting to Mormonism. There are two visitor centers with interactive displays, written and video information and members everywhere with nametags and big smiles. They run free tours of the square every 15 minutes or so that last about a half hour. Unfortunately, the tabernacle itself is undergoing extensive restoration in order to make it earthquake proof, and was unable to be viewed. The Temple is not open for visitation and in fact is not generally open to the congregation except for special ceremonies and only after preparation. We were able to see the Assembly Hall, which serves as a church with some amazing carpentry by members (pine columns painted to look like marble and benches hand painted to look like oak). Mom was interested to learn that marriages in the temple are forever and they believe that the families will be reunited after death. There is some allowance for widowed persons to have a legal marriage that will bind them in life but not after death. The LDS belief is that the resurrected Jesus visited people in the Americas and they were some of the other prophets who contributed to the Book of Mormon.

We also went on a tour of their new conference center with a 790 pipe organ (not the 1100 pipes of the one in the tabernacle but still amazing to hear) and seating for 22,000. The building is over 7 acres in size and has a four-acre ‘natural’ garden on the roof. From the top of the conference center you can see the Great Salt Lake – as well as the World’s Largest Open pit copper mine – across the valley. (The copper mine is one of the two man-made sites that they say you can see from space – with the other being the Great Wall of China). There is an incredible array of art pieces and the building itself is an amazing feat of architecture. It also has interesting technical features – they have numerous translators and can have instantaneous translation to you via earphone in over 100 languages, there are sensors in the seats and they can direct you to the only empty seat in the house, the sound system can be adjusted for each set of seats, and all the choir seats and the organ control can be moved around or hidden completely – to mention only a few of the interesting features.

Temple Square itself was in full spring mode with beautiful flowerbeds overflowing with blooms in an array of colour. Although many were familiar there were a few new ones. The sights and smells were very welcome after being in a mostly desert environment for the past few weeks.

Finished off the evening with a Chinese Buffet just down the road that was quite yummy with a variety of flavours and of course ice cream for desert for the boys. Then a hot tub, some journal writing, and bed. Tomorrow, the Great Salt Lake and a move at least a ways down the road.

April 16, 2005 –

Up to a clear sunny day as we headed north out of Salt Lake City. Took a side trip to Antelope Island State Park – an island in the middle of the Great Salt Lake. The Island is connected to the mainland by a several mile causeway. Given the wonderful weather today – many people were taking advantage of the causeway and island and were riding out on their bicycles – as well as a large group from the Goldwing Riders Association that were out enjoying the day. The Great Salt Lake is actually a historic remnant of a much large Lake Bonneville. Lake Bonneville would have put the entire valley under water – (the current level of Salt Lake varies with rain, snow and evaporation levels – but its average level is at about 4200 feet above sea level. At one time the level of Lake Bonneville was at 5085 feet – putting it close to the height of the “U” on the mountain overlooking Salt Lake City.

The Antelope – for which the Island were named – used to be plentiful in number – given that the island provided an area with no natural enemies. However, the early settlers to the island also appreciated this – and soon started transporting grazing animals to the island. This resulted in a depletion of the available food and the last wild antelope was seen in 1932. The island was also home to bison – which were introduced to the island in an effort to save them from extinction. The bison continue to grow in number to a point where Antelope Island was the place of the last Buffalo hunt in the US (1926). Now every year there is a buffalo round up in the fall, which the public can watch – and participate in. As it is spring, the bison are off in the remoter areas of the island having their calves – and we will not have the time to do the half day hike to get into see them. In 1993 the State Park service – after buying the remainder of Antelope Island, has slowly started to re-introduce antelope to the island.

We took a walk out to the beach – and although the water was much too cold to go for a swim (40 degrees) we thought we should go put our feet in the water. However this was less appealing than was first thought – due to the large number of bird carcasses on the beach. Therefore despite the beautifully calm and clear day – we had to satisfy ourselves with skipping rocks in the water. The Great Salt Lake varies in salinity from 4% to 25% depending on its water level, and which part of the lake you are in. The water comes from streams running through old mineral and salt beds. There is no outlet so water only exits by evaporation leaving the salt behind. The added salt increases buoyancy and mom thought that would be cool to try but even she found the water far too chilly.

The salt level of the lake is such that most aquatic life cannot survive. However the brine shrimp and a number of other microorganisms have adapted and do very well the area. These shrimp not only support a large brine shrimp industry (for fish food) but also are a necessary food source for migrating birds – as the Great Salt Lake is on the migratory flyway. Commercially the Salt Lake is also being mined for salt for export.

Continued north from Salt Lake and up into Idaho. On the way we “ran into” a large number of bugs. The windows on the motor home had to be cleaned several times today – and are still not great. When we get home it will take us a long time for us to get the outside of the motor home clean – as is starting to look like the great speckled rig.

Encountered our highest gas price of the trip ($2.49 per gallon) in a little place outside of Rupert. The reality of gas prices and getting used to what we will be paying back home is going to have to sink in sooner or later. Crossed the Snake River Plain with its thick layer of lava that covers most of the plain. Those areas that are irrigated – are very lush and support many plants and diary animals. The large parts that are not irrigated seem to make good rangeland. There are also a large number of feedlots throughout the area – and at times when the wind was blowing the right direction – it really clears your sinuses.

Continued on to a little campground outside of Tuttle. Although not much around – had a great walk in the evening before the sun went down. As they are predicting rain later on tomorrow – we will continue to put towards the coast with no set destination – seeing how far we get.

April 17, 2005 –

Up to more of an overcast day – with dark clouds threatening in the West. Although the campground was close to the interstate there was a natural berm that kept the road noise at bay – and it was quiet a comfortable sleep. However, when you stepped outside, the closeness of the feedlots provided an unmistakeable “richness” to the air.

The bathrooms at the campground are cordoned off by a metal gating from the restaurant and store. This proves to be more than satisfactory when the store is closed – however is somewhat unnerving when you walk in for your morning shower – and are greeted by about twenty people who are enjoying breakfast – and who glance up to see who has come in.

As we were breaking camp this morning – a homely white pup made his presence felt. Initially he greeted Mom when she came back from the shower – and then he peacefully lay outside the motor home until we would come out. The boys enjoyed petting and getting licked by him – and it made us appreciate how much we have missed having pets around. This pup was obviously well taken care of (probably from one of the local farm houses) – but would have happily jumped in the motor home and come along for the ride should we have let him.

Between the winds, rain, hills and highway speeds (75 MPH) this was not a great day for fuel conservation – plus the overall prices continued to climb. It’s a good thing that our journey is nearing a close – as these priced would have probably driven Dad nuts had they been this way all along.

Passed through Boise in the middle of a rainstorm – and between that and the degree of traffic on the roads – were not able to see much. Continued West over the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest and Deadman’s Pass. Briefly debated stopping at one of campgrounds at the top of the pass – but between the rain and the wind – decided it would be best to push on. (Although there is no snow – the maintenance trucks still have sanders and plough blades on). Rolled down the hill on fumes (Dad continues to stretch how fair the motor home will go) and into the Umatilla Indian Reservation – and their large Casino / Golf Course / Museum and Cultural Centre and RV Park. Picked up some gas – and check out the Cultural Centre – but after giving it some thought decided that we would continue to push on for a while longer.

Passed through Pendleton, the home of the Pendleton Woollen Factory – famous for their star blankets. Debated stopping – but decided that we really couldn’t afford to get another blanket (Mom won one when we lived in Creston) – and that we would just continue on.

Ended up stopping in Hermiston, Oregon at a campground in town for the night. It was still early enough in the day with the time change and all – the kids had time to play outside – as well as squeeze in a bit of a grocery shop. The kids worked hard on their schoolwork today while we were driving – and probably earned the break.

Had to do a bit of a “Red Green” repair job to the motor home when we pulled in. It appears that some of the flashing on the rear quarter panel has given way (due to the wood rotting underneath) and was at risk of coming completely off. Probable cause is a small leak in the roof. However with some white duct tape and some patience – Dad was able to patch it together. Hopefully it will hold until we get home when a more complete repair will have to be done.

Tomorrow morning we will make reservations at one of the resorts at the coast and finalize our travel plans. We are hoping to find a place around Astoria – so that we can spend some time on the beach – and so that Dad can go and visit his Aunt and Uncle in Long View.

April 18, 2005 –

Off to an early start this morning as we continued west down the Columbia River Gorge. The plateau on the Oregon side seemed to have numerous tree farms – most filled with quick growing deciduous trees. We were not sure if the trees were used for firewood or pulp – but they went on for miles. The Washington side – appeared to be a lot more arid looking.

Our first stop was across the river at Samuel Hill’s monument to the thirteen local young men who gave their lives during WWI. This monument duplicates in size and form the original Stonehenge from England – and sits on a ledge overlooking the Columbia River. Hill was a Quaker pacifist – however when he visited England during the war years – he first saw Stonehenge. He was told that the original Stonehenge was used for human sacrifices to the pagan gods. He felt that man was still making sacrifices to the god of war on the field of battle. Therefore using his own funds he started the project on July 4, 1918 when the central altar stone was dedicated and the structure was completed 11 years later.

Samuel Hill was a patron of the region, and in addition to the town that he built on the steep banks overlooking the river – he also built the Maryhill Museum of Art. It is a few miles further down the road and is an impressive three story stone building, with sweeping verandas and a wonderful view of the river below. We spent some time wandering the grounds looking at the sculptures interspaced between the gardens and the peacocks.

Back on the road – and this time along the Washington side of the gorge (more scenic but far narrower). The road was such that Dad had to pull over to let Mom make sandwiches – the first time that we have had to do this on our trip – as there was too many curves to safely make lunch. Maybe we are just slowing down as the trip is winding down. Mom however did get a smile on her face as we started to once again encounter the moisture of the Pacific Northwest – with its cedar trees and ferns.

Continued west to the coast – and a RPI campground at Long Beach. After getting the rig fully set up – Dad and the boys took a walk down to the beach. The trail to the beach is full of standing water – as it has rained here 17 of the last 20 days. However the forecast for the next week appears to be good – so once again it looks like we have the weather gods on our side. The campground is located at almost the very south end of the Long Beach – famous for its razorback clams. We could see down the beach for miles and saw numerous vehicle tracks – as this is one beach that it is permissible to drive upon. The tide was in the process of coming in – and the beach seemed to have many small jellyfish covering it. Each big wave seemed to bring in more. Mickey thought they felt like macaroni when you stepped on them in shoes (oh joy). Returned to the beach after supper and although it was cool – watched the sun set over the water. (In the span of a couple of months we have watched the sun set over both the Atlantic – from Key West; and the Pacific).

The plan is to spend the next couple of days here – before slowly starting our trek back home. Dad called work today – and it appears that almost immediately after he gets back to work – he has to travel to the Shuswap for several days and then to Vancouver. It’s a good thing that he enjoys driving. Also the accumulation of snow seems to be gone from the cabin – so hopefully we can park the motor home without having to shovel the parking area out.

April 19, 2005 –

Up this morning – with the boys starting on school work – and Dad went in search of an Internet connection to post the web page, and do a minor grocery shop. After some searching – there was a video store with e-mail services. Not only was it fairly slow and expensive – but it would not let Dad respond to any of the e-mails that we have received. Dad next went to the Information Center – and while picking up information he sampled some of the local coffee and told it was “donated” by a local roastarie and “Internet” cafe!! Dad had to check this place out – and not only was the mocha wonderful – but the Internet was free and fast. The one depressing thing was that gas prices have reached $2.76 per gallon locally – and although the news is reporting that gas prices have started to dip – there is no indication of that here.

After getting some groceries Dad came back to the camp. The boys had worked hard – and in a very short time – had finished up their lessons and were ready to explore the area. All of us packed up and headed into Long Beach proper. First stop was a brief spin on the beach in the Suzuki – to satisfy Keelan’s wish. Next we parked at one beach exit – and took a walk about half a mile to another beach entrance (Dad and Mickey on the discovery trail boardwalk; Mom and Keelan down the beach). The boys took a real interest in the Grey Whale skeleton on display. This display was set up from a whale that had beached itself several years ago – and in commemoration of that Lewis and Clark noted that they had found a large bone on the beach approximately at this site (and it was believed that the bone was from a Grey Whale – which comes close to this area during their migration.

From the beach we walked back through town – with our first stop being the Roastarie – for hot chocolate for the boys. Then we walked on to Marsh’s Free Museum. This store / museum has many strange and wonderful things. Mom was taken by a variety of the music boxes and players that they had. The most amazing was not just a player piano but had player flutes, drums, trumpet and more. Almost all are still in working order and for 10 cents to a dollar you can hear them play. The boys were amazed by a variety of shells and artefacts that they found. The museum largest claim to fame is “Jake the Alligator Man”. This unusual “item” supposedly came from Florida – and looks like it should be in some circus sideshow. However, locally it holds some special place in people’s hearts – and you can see “Friends of Jake” bumper stickers around town.

From Marsh’s we continued down the street – past the woodcarvings, kite shops, galleries and restaurants. Across the street is the large fry pan they use for their annual razor clam bake. From here, we turned the corner and headed back to the beach – walking under the sign pronouncing this as the World’s Longest Beach.

From here we drove south to the port of Ilwaco – in search of fresh seafood for supper. Mom was able to get some fresh Ling Cod and crab – and then we went in search of Salt and Pepper chips (Dad’s pick for breading fish in). Back to the campground for a great supper.

Today was also somewhat of a sad day – in that we have completed our trip planning to take us home. As you know we have purposely not planned more than about a week ahead throughout this trip – but it is getting close to that time. If everything comes together and the weather holds – we should be back into Canada next Wednesday (to friends in Creston) and then back to the cabin on Thursday. Although we have had a great time – it still seems to be coming to an end way too soon. For a family that was originally not sure that we could do this for more than a month – 7 months does not seem nearly long enough. Although we could put off heading home for a bit longer – as we do not have to be back to work until mid-May – it will take us time to unpack and get our and the kids lives back into a more normal rhythm.

April 20, 2005 –

Up to a cloudy morning – despite the forecast promising a clearing and warming trend. Oh well – at least it’s not raining – like it has so many previous days.

Headed out to Longview – to meet up with and have lunch with Dad’s aunt – Catherine. The boys did school work in the car in the way down. Had a good visit – and helped Catherine with some errands. An amazing woman – 90 years old and still on her own.

Did a quick grocery shop in town before heading back to the campground via the Oregon side of the Columbia River – scouting out some options for the next couple of day. The Maritime Museum in Astoria looked like a possibility – as did some of the hikes in the state parks. We will have to wait and see what the weather looks like tomorrow – and make our plans from there.

April 21, 2005 –

Off back across the big bridge over the Columbia River to Astoria, Oregon – and the Columbia River Maritime Museum. The area where the Columbia River empties into the Pacific Ocean is sometimes referred to the as the Graveyard of the Pacific. The combinations of high seas, the strong river, and shallow, shifting sand bars make the Columbia River bar one of the most dangerous bar crossings in the world. Since 1792 over 2000 vessels – including over 200 large ships have sunk at the Columbia River bar, and more than 700 people have lost their lives. Ships entering the river can travel to up the river through Portland and all the way up to Lewiston, Idaho. However running the channels and the bar of the Columbia River is extremely difficult – and they have two separate boat captains – a river pilot and a bar pilot. These pilots are extremely well trained – the river pilots have to be able to draw the entire river channels complete with landmarks and depths from memory – even though they have computer-assisted navigation. The bar pilots – of which there are far fewer – even have more training. They however say that the most difficult part of their job is getting on and off the big ships in the open sea – especially with currents. It seems to involve climbing down a ladder part way and then swinging out on a rope when the moment is right…

Given the challenging seas here – it is also the rough water-training center for the coast guard rescue boats. As a result the port has always got its share of small to big rescue boats standing by – as well as helicopters patrolling the cost. They average about 400 rescues a year – due to the treacherous nature of the bar – and how quickly the conditions can change. The Museum devotes a portion of their displays to the work done by the Coast Guard and the 44-foot self-righting, self-bailing rescue boat. These 44-foot boats were viewed as being unsinkable and were used for 20 years before starting to be replaced with larger boats.

Outside the Museum was the Lightship Columbia. This lightship is actually a floating lighthouse that was employed in those areas where the construction of an actual lighthouse was not feasible. It remained anchored at its position during all types of weather to warn sailors of a hazard – and they came equipped with light beacons, fog horns and radio transmitters. The Columbia was the last active lightship on the West Coast and was replaced by an automated navigational buoy in November of 1979. From the reports of the crew – life on board a lightship ranged from boredom – during quiet weather – to violent seasickness when bobbing around like a cork in heavy storms.

From the Museum we travelled to Fort Clatsop National Memorial – the Western most point of the Lewis and Clark expedition. At this site Lewis and Clark built a small fort and spent the winter of 1805. According to their journals, out of the three months they were there – it rained all but 6 days – so we can’t complain about the weather. Being that it is the bi-centenary of the expedition – everyone seems to be doing something on Lewis and Clark – but this provided a great example for the boys to learn something about their great trek. It is a relatively small national monument – which makes it more intimate. They also had a really wonderful display of pressed plants – which gave Keelan the idea that we should do this at home.

On the way back to the campground – stopped in Chinook at a small seafood market and picked up some oysters, cod and monk fish (known as poor man’s lobster). Dad cooked up the Cod and oysters (however probably ate over half of them raw – but could not recruit any interest from the rest of the family). Topped the night off with a wonderful Razzelberry pie and ice cream.