April 18 –

So, it is about a month before I retire from the Public Service, and I am headed on a flight home after a couple of days with the Office of the Wet’suwet’en. This should be the last of my work travel and I now look forward to my retirement journey. I was gifted a package of homemade dried salmon (thanks Martina), which was a wonderful surprise and will augment the 60 days of meals that I have dried over the last couple of months (burnt out my small Excelsior food drier in the process). The kayak is in the shop, getting new lines and rudder assembly installed. I am slowly starting to both pull together and pare down my gear. All of which is my usual way to hide how excited, anxious, and nervous I am.

I have really enjoyed the last little bit of work I have been doing, and it has re-energized me – so therefore wonder if it is the right time to leave. At the same time, I know that if I do not do this trip now, it may not happen as it is not something that Deb wants to undertake with me. I worry that after a couple of weeks of searching for and nurturing my inner hermit, that I will come to the conclusion that I must have totally lost my mind to have undertaken this rather than simply driven the kayak down to Kentucky. I will have to wait and see.

At this point, the plan is to put the kayak in the Milk River at Havre, Montana, sometime during the long weekend in May. (initially wanted to go from Alberta – but the timing and arrangements to do a river crossing of the border in the middle of nowhere was just too difficult to coordinate.). I will then continue East and South, until I come to my senses / loose my mind; have sorted out what is next; or get close to the cabin in Cadiz. From an overview point of view – this means following the Milk River until you it joins the Missouri, floating down the Missouri (in the reverse direction of Lewis and Clark) to St. Louis where it joins the Mississippi. From there continue South until the Tennessee River enters the Mississippi (about 45 miles from our cabin). Original dream was to continue to New Orleans and the Gulf of Mexico – but that may have to wait until a later time – however the idea of paddling into Memphis has started to gain interest.

This “odd-essy” has been dubbed Drift Away – as I am really on no schedule, and will travel each day as short or as far as the weather and/or mood takes me. I would like to be home in Cranbrook by late September at the latest … but will see how things go. My intent is to post my position regularly through a GPS program, and update a blog whenever I have wifi access.

Those are the best laid plans and intentions – let’s see how far astray this all gets.

For those of you that have being asking exactly what sort of “craft” I am taking to Kentucky – well – its a 1996 Perception Jocassee Tandem Kayak – 16 feet, 4 inches long, and 32 inches wide.  It weighs a grand total of 80lbs empty .  It has been reviewed as a stable two-seater with room for a child / dog in the middle- if necessary – plenty of room for gear. Capacity: 800 lbs, Cockpit is 7′ long, 26″ wide. It is an open cockpit but handles heavy water easily with or without the spray skirt.

Getting Ready to – Drift Away –

May 13, 2019

Four more working days until retirement. Spent the weekend at the cabin finalizing all the preparations for the trip – paring down gear, cloths and food – and seeing if everything will fit into the boat.

  • Had my stitches removed from the knee surgery this morning and have been given the green light to go from the doc.
  • Have purchases supplemental medical trip insurance until Sept 1 – should I want to be gone that long.  This gives me the ability to poke along, sit out bad weather, and take all the time I need.  (besides if I return early  – I can get a refund)
  • A three month supply of medications has been picked up and stored is a secure and waterproof container.
  • A test run of the SPOT satellite communication system has been conducted and will see if it also allows Mick to post a map of my progress to this site.
  • Deb has made the decision to drive me about another hour and a half beyond Havre, MT. for my put start point. We will play it by ear based on water flow – but this extra drive – saves me about 200 miles of shallow twisty river and irrigation dams to portage and means that I join the Missouri and deeper water much sooner. 
  • Deb is planning to stay around the area for my first night on the river- as I finish my shake-down to see if there is any last minute item I have forgotten before she heads home.

I have had a couple of requests to show the kayak complete with gear that is being loaded – so took a couple of pics before doing a practice load …

Things to note:

  • waterproof camera on front (yellow at bow).  Mounting bracket doubles to hold lights for night running
  • solar panels to charge battery – located between yellow and blue bag – mounts in front of front seat.
  • stabilization pontoons at back for sailing, fishing and if necessary to sleep on board.
  • take down umbrella for shade

And for companionship – I have added Scrat (the sabre tooth squirrel from Ice Age). Scrat is an experienced traveler and co-pilot having rode with Mick and I in 2008 down the Hwy 127 yards sale to Chattanooga, across to the Natchez Trace to Avery Island before heading home. Of course that time he was duct taped to the top of the Jetta. Scrat may be a little worse for wear – having lost his tail, and being permanently bug stained, but for nostalgia sake he had to come. I have promised not to bring him back – hopefully leaving him at the cabin in Cadiz – but I believe Deb hopes that he gets lost along the way …

I have also been asked to show how what the entire trip would look like if I complete the whole thing by river. (Note – if I decide to bail out early – then I will rent a car and take the kayak the rest of the way – as the goal is to get it to our cabin in Cadiz). The yellow highlighted area gives an approximate idea of where we think I will start on the Milk River – where it joins the Missouri and then eventually flows into the Mississippi at St. Louis. My final destination is Cairo – where the Tennessee River joins the Mississippi – and about 45 miles from our cabin.

On a more serious note – as this is now becoming close to a reality – and I am both excited and nervous. Leaving the predictability of going to work and the friends and colleagues I have made is a bit unnerving. However, this is something I have thought about since I was in my mid-twenties – when I learned that the Milk River in Alberta flowed into the Gulf of Mexico. But, I have to remember that is being done with a 60 year old body … It may be a good or stupid decision – but either way I am sure I will learn from it – and have the time to figure out what I want to do with the next stage of my life – before I drive Deb nuts by being underfoot.

End and Beginning

May 17 –

So I have finished my last day of work (with a wide range of emotions) – packed up my office and have the car packed and kayak loaded. Thanks to Marilyn for staying with me to the very end – and accepting and signing back in my keys, boxing up the computer, etc. I think it was fair to say that this was a lot harder on both of us than we thought it would be.  We have worked together for 17 years and have always been there for each other.

Deb and I leave for Montana tomorrow morning. The weather is supposed to be cool, cloudy and rainy for the next 4 days – not exactly the best send off by  mother nature – but at least there will be a little more water in the Milk River.

We did a full kayak load and dry run on Wednesday night out at Moyie Lake – and not only does the boat float (one of Deb’s worries – although I know I have gained a little weight over the last 2 years – it does have an 800lb capacity), and that I was able to get in and out of the kayak nimbly with my knee (part of both of our worries). From how the kayak rides in the water – we seem to have the weight relatively well distributed.  We added a little more velcro to the kayak – to support the spray skirt adaptions, and have finalized the location of the front seat and secured it.  That is probably as good as it gets – for now – but I fully expect to be making alterations along the trip.

The gear pile
Loaded and ready to launch
Water Buffalo ?

Start of Journey –

May 19 – Day 1 on the Milk – sort of.

Up this morning and had the pleasant surprise of being greeted by sunshine. Went to pay out motel bill and the lady who ran the motel, said that she used to run the bar in Saco, and remembered the young man who had stopped on his way south on the river with his father’s ashes. This is one of the journeys I had read that inspired me when researching this trip. Sort of a nice coincidence.

Headed out to find a place to put the kayak in. This turned out to be a bit of a gong show. Anywhere you could get road access to the river, the banks were too steep, and the property fenced off. Tried behind the hospital at Glasgow on a suggestion of a local, only to find it was too steep and muddy. And this mud is almost impossible to get off. It cakes about 2 inches think and adheres like a caulking compound.

Finally had to go all the way to the Missouri River and put in at School Access upon recommendations of the people who were headed out fishing with there boat at the point where the Milk joins the Missouri. Finally was able to get the Kayak in about 2:00 with the intent of paddling for a couple of hours and then stopping and sending Deb the all okay signal from the Spot as there is no cell service

First night

Paddling conditions varied considerably throughout the afternoon- from sunny to clouds, to wind and sprinkles of rain. Once I reached the Milk River I took the opportunity to paddle a short distance up the river and thank the people we had met for their launch location,

About 4:00 went to stop at a little island, with a nice sand bar and a back eddy. Edged the kayak in backwards and jumped out when ran aground. Remember that mud that we previously encountered but obviously did not learn our lesson from. Well this time it was like quicksand, sinking up to my knees, grabbing both sandals, ripping the straps off one to the point where it was non-repairable. Had to lay across kayak to get out, but only after falling totally in – twice. I was laughing so hard thinking about what Deb would think, and hearing Arlene’s words about there being difficulties to overcome. Tried three more possible locations, finally settling on one across from Fort Peck reservation. Still fairly muddy landing, but a sandy bench up about 20 feet. Ended up unloading kayak and setting up the tent in my bare feet and wet cloths – due to rain clouds in the area. Then found a place to scrap the mud off my feet and wash then. It took about 3 hours for me to get full feeling back in my toes. I then washed the cloths, and hung then on the bushes to attempt to dry. With new dry cloths on I went to start supper – and stepped over a log and had a stick roll out from me resulting in an ungraceful splits, and a 6 inch rip in the crotch of my blue camo pants. (Temporary mending job done under flashlight in the tent.)

Sent the okay signal to deb – wondering if I actually was, and then settled down to a seafood chowder supper (had planned on having a big sandwich, but it got left in the cooler in the car – along with my sausage and cheese – hopefully Deb will enjoy).

Weather cleared up, and there was a beautiful sunset, although the clear skies will drop temperature to close to freezing. The water became mirror like calm, and you could hear big fish jumping, and the turkeys, ducks and geese. Two deer walked down for an evening drink.

Eventful first day. In the tent by 8:45.


May 20 – Town – not

Slept well, except for the two deer that decided that I had camped on their trail, and walked by on either side of tent, close enough to kick the guy line, and the pack of coyotes that decided to practice their harmony on the ledge 20 ft behind the tent. The locals were making it clear I was trespassing. Oh – and the leg cramps. I was expecting my arms to be sore, but both legs charlie horsed over the course of the night.

Woke up to a foggy morning – with a frost covering the tent and the clothes I had left our to dry. There were small pieces of ice floating down the river and it was so calm that the fish were making considerable noise when the jumped. Note to self – put cold weather gear in with sleeping bag as was a wee bit chilly last night

Double helping of oatmeal and two cups of coffee and then started to break camp. Have moved a few things around, and therefore it took a couple of tries to pack canoe. Opted to go from sand, through the mud and into water in my bare feet, and then wash them off the best I can, and put pool shoes on in kayak ( the pool shoes just get sucked off with the mud). I now regret not taking my neoprene zip up boots, figuring they would too warm as they would have worked great in the mud and my feet would be warmer

On the river by 9:30 and the first hour was gorgeous, with the sun burning off the fog, and the river being calm. Then the clouds rolled in and the wind picked up. You had to work to not be blown backwards or sideways, and for only on short section did I have the wind at my back. It was a cold wind and at times there were 2 ft high whitecaps if the wind had a long enough run. If also churned up the water making it hard to see deadheads and shallows. Got stuck once on a submerged sandbar and had to line the kayak out. Unfortunately in getting out of boat difference in my weight made it float quickly, resulting in me doing the splits and my blue camo pants losing the crouch again. To be fair, the material seems to have small holes and tears – almost like batteries acid got on them. So I have decided to sacrifice the lowest of the two zip off sections and uses the material to make repairs, and just have capris. It does not look pretty but it is better than getting arrested for indecent exposure. Encounter two small rapid sets early in the day, but with little noise you could clearly hear them and scout the river. Still haven’t seen anyone else on the river except for the 3 fisherman who gave us directions.

Was going to stop for lunch around 12:30 (I had made a thermos chowder (trying to use up my dried shrimp)), but was having difficulty. finding a place to stop. Then off in the distance I saw a water tower, figuring a town with wifi or cell. Paddled a couple of hours to get there only to find that the town was not on the river. I then battled wind and high banks for awhile, finally finding a place to stop to eat my lunch about 5. After sitting for a few minutes I realized how tired and cold I was and decided to camp there. There was no sheltered spot so it was challenging setting up the tent in the strong wind. Almost lost it once when the pegs gave way while I was putting the pole in. Had to use the paddled to brace the wind side. Hunkered downing the tent to warm up mend the camo pants for the second time. One good thing about the strong wind is that it didn’t take long to dry the clothes.

Steep banks

Just before dark, the wind quit, and it was a beautiful evening, until about 60 geese flew into the small island across from me and started their honking. They finally quieted down about 10:00 pm

Back eddy

May 21 – A bridge too far

Up early to rain, but no wind. Waited for the showers to end and then packed up quickly. On the river by 8:15 – full spray skirt as rain continued off and on until about noon. And then the wind picked up. At least with the spray skirt my feet were warmer. Stopped on an island for lunch and hid in the trees to stay warm.

The Blue camo pants did not make getting out of the kayak, tearing the material beside the repair. Therefore they are junk, and I am down a pair of pants. My thermarest has developed a slow leak, as has my camp pillow and water bucket, so hopefully I will find a nice spot to spend a couple of days and relax and make repairs,

Came across a farmer with a tractor, trying successfully to pull a cow out of the mud. Says he loses a couple a year that he does not find in time. Says he puts temporary fences across the paths down, but the still did a way around. Apparently it will be another month before things dry up enough for most to be safe. For me it means a scramble trying to find camping sites – between the mud and steep banks.

At lunch, I checked my GPS and figured that I was only 15 miles to Wolf Point. I decided to push for there for tonight in order to hopefully get cell service so I could send a message home, and keep Deb from worrying. However, with the string winds throughout the afternoon, I did not make as good a time as I hoped and did not get in until 6.

Upon arriving at Wolf Point, I asked a couple of people fishing off the banks if there was a good pull out or camping spot – thinking I might spoil myself to a meal or even a motel room They told me, there was a place at the bridge, just down the river. Turns out it’s about 6 miles out of town, and although there a boat launch, there is no overnight camping. Tried the others side of the bridge but it was just below a bar and gun range, so figured I could do better. Ended up on a high and steep river bank that had sloughed away, with barely enough sort of flat space for the tent on one level and a cooking area on another. Hopefully it does not rain tonight. Found the site at 8:00 pm and it took about an hour to set up and cook supper..

Wind proofing tent with wood and paddles

Was able to get cell service so was able to send messages home, plus have Mick post this to the website. Will probably be out of service for a while again, so don’t know when the next update will happen.


May 22 – Short Day

Up to a lazy start, as the wind was already blowing, but the clouds were high overhead so did not look like it could rain. Wolf Point temperature was 8 C but with the wind they said it was more like 4 C.

The water rose about 6 inches overnight so it’s a good thing had the boat tied up. Made breakfast, coffee and thermos lunch before leaving. Had enough water to brush my teeth and take a half a water bottle. Will need to stop and purify some tonight.

Wind did not let up, but decided to start out so as to not have to be stuck on the small ledge I had camped on. On the water by 10:00 AM. The wind barely let up and it was not until 11:00 that a got a quick lull and was able to drink my coffee. It is tricky trying not to get swamped by heading directly into the wave, when you have standing waves situated one way and whitecaps coming at 60 degree angles. Tiring keep watch of everything ( including the many rocks and Deadheads) not to mention exhausting on the arms.

At noon I nudged into a swallow eddy with the wind behind me, and had lunch onboard, as it was way too muddy to get out. Headed off again after about 30 minutes, and continue down river when I paddled – otherwise I would be going backward. Found a small island with a sheltered back eddy about 2:30 and decided to stop. Was going to set the tent on the lee side of big driftwood stump and tree, but it appears the coyote found the spot first. There was a small den and lots of goose and duck feathers. So I am set up in a less protected area about 60 feet away. Live and Let live – right.

The island is small, maybe 3 minutes to walk around, and only one spot by the water with cell service. Purified enough water for a couple of days. The water that we got from the Riverside motel in Malta tasted fine, but would dry out your mouth in a couple of minutes. Hopefully this water is better.

With the wind blowing as much as it is, the sand gets into everything. You always have grit in you mouth, and I am sure that I am carrying an extra 20 pounds of weight.

Tonight to relax, do repairs, and see what the weather is like tomorrow. The island gives me a chance to walk and stretch my legs, as they are often like hello when I first step out if the boat and start to move around. I may end up staying another day, depending on how I feel. No schedule so there is always tomorrow. Not bad for not being at work. Schedule already toast, sore arms, wobbly legs, tired, dirty, smelly, but happy.


May 23 – Beautiful Day

So after getting everything set up and done yesterday, I laid down in the tent before supper and snoozed as the tent warmer an the sun and I was out of the wind. This gave a chance for my feet to get warm and some feeling in them – which seems normal, for this temperature. What was not normal was that it felt like the bottom outside edges of both feet were bruised. I guess I was pushing too hard on the rudder pedals fighting the wind, that I did a number on them. Will try my heavier pool shoes tomorrow to see if that helps. As a result, I had a poor sleep being awake with aching feet. (Also the repair on the camp pillow worked – but now it blew out the entire seem – so no pillow. But it was the first night I had time to use my eReader.

Woke up to sun shining down and not a cloud in the sky. Although it was cool overnight, the sun heated up the tent fast. Moved, or rather hobbled slowly and packed things up and treated myself to corn beef hash and eggs (all dried or powdered) as well as a cup of coffee on site and another for the kayak.

Pushed off a little later than usual – and headed out on the calm waters. Although I did not see my island mate at all – when I entered the main channel and looked back – there was a coyote on the knoll watching me. Maybe he was giving me my space too.

The day was beautiful and sunny, with just the occasional breeze to keep you from overheating. About noon I put on a long sleeve shirt to protect my arms and had my pants rolled down below my knees. Well it was the right idea – but not enough. My shins on both legs burnt as did the back of my neck. The sun block had not yet been moved to an accessible place, so resorted to covering my neck with a towel, and putting the collapsible water pail on one leg and foot he bailing sponge on the other. Actually felt pretty good.

Wee bit burnt.

Passed through another town at about 4:00, but this one did not have a place to dock or get easy access. Seems that people down here do not build parks or boat launches along the river. Those that are fishing are doing so from the shore. I still have not seen another person on the river.

Found another island about an hour away where I set up camp. Walked the island and found a single spot where I could get intermittent cell service, so sent a message home. Deb sent me a reminder, that I am not on a time line and therefore don’t have to rush, but I am not really following the map or setting goals. I am simply paddling based on the weather and time of day – and the looking for an appropriate camp spot, that I can get to without having to fight the Missouri mud. (Finally took the tensor off my good knee this morning and it feels fine – just being more careful)


May 24 – Air Raid Siren???

Awaken at about 7:00 AM to rain. Not heavy but enough. Looked out at the clouds and they were low and they were covering most of the sky. Debated doing a hurried pack up but decided against it, choosing to wait it out until it least got warmer, and hopefully get a break in the weather later. Glad I managed to put the cover on the kayak last night as it will hopefully keep most of the rain out.

Life jacket did not cut it as a pillow. Up at about 2:00 AM stuffing everything soft into a stuff sack and sleeping on that. During my rain delay I will explore other options.

10:30 Still raining, not heavy but consistent. Have finished my book, made a makeshift pillow, and now need to get up to pee. Up, made a quick run – checked on the boat and pulled it up a bit more, tightened tent, grabbed snack food that did not need cooking and more water, and back to the tent. Looks like it is socked in for the day so hope tomorrow brings sunshine to dry everything out. Will stay put for day and rest and read.

By 12:30 the rain quit, although the clouds looked ominous. Used the opportunity to dry out and re-stake the tent as the back corner was drawing water. Then went down and boiled some water and made coffee (coffee in bed no matter where you are is still a nice touch) and a beef mushroom soup for later. Since weather was still holding off, heated some river water and washed my hair and had a sponge bath. By then the wind picked up so we to back to the warmth of the tent which was drying out fast.

3:50 – Sun is breaking through, clouds are clearing out, Air Raid Siren goes off. Scramble out of tent and look for tornadoes. Nothing. Rude way to wake a guy from his nap.

By 5:30 the sky is clear, the sun is warm, and I wish I could find a way to break and set up camp in a hurry, as the evenings have been glorious. Have not mastered that skill as packing kayak is still a jigsaw puzzle, and easy places to land and set up are still too few are far in between. Had supper, sat in the sun and generally zoned out.

With the morning and afternoon to think, daydream and nap while hiding out from the rain, thought about how fortunate I am to even be able to try something like this. The support and humour my family and close friends have had during the various incarnations of planning and preparation. The concern and worry (or just plain Dad is nuts) that they hid – to humour my plan.

Also all the things that I am missing out on by being away. I am missing Deb’s 60th birthday on Sunday, and although she says it is no big deal – it is a milestone that desires proper recognition. Will have to make it up when I get back. (no – being away for a couple on months is not present enough). This is also the weekend of the Summer 3D archery shoot – and with the way my knee is recovering – probably could have done it all with a brace on. This is also probably the first time I would have had the time to help out – as I am sure Deb and Keelan are busy doing their part.

I am missing everyone, but am also finding that the little voice in my head is getting clearer, nicer, and less cynical – and that is a good thing.

May 25 – Almost Timeless

Up to a beautiful clear morning. Skies were clear most of night and as a result a wee bit cool when I woke up. Decided to snuggle back in and let the sun warm up the tent a bit. Beside the makeshift pillow worked wonderfully.

On the river by 10:30, complete with sunscreen on my shins, neck and arms. By 12:00 I could feel the burn coming back, and instead of taking off my paddling gloves and applying more sunscreen, I took off my t-shirt and threw it over my lower legs, and put on my light long sleeve and raised the collar. Seemed to work well enough.

Met my first person on the river – fisherman in a small punt with an electric motor. He had been traveling back and forth across the mouth of a little stream that entered the Missouri. Said he had been there three days and I was the only person he had seen. He was curious about my trip and did not realize that the River went to the Gulf of Mexico. He told me to safe and I continued onward. Passed under a road bridge a bit later, but during the entire time approaching and leaving, did not see a vehicle cross it. There was a ford king cab parked just past the bridge in a grassy pullout – but I don’t think they saw me – something about the motor running, music blaring, seats reclined and the articles of clothing hanging from the mirror.

Lisa sent a text laughing about all the things I had already lost. Well here’s another to add to the list. When reaching behind the seat for my camera, I must have caught my watch band on the gunnel – because it was gone the next I went to check the time. I did find it – when I stopped for the night – minus the pin for the strap. By that time I already figured I wouldn’t worry about it as it is somewhat useless out here. So I have tucked it away with my passport, and the ring from my right hand, which has fallen off a couple of time ( fingers shrinking ???)

Stopped for the night on a sand bar type island, just down the river from Brockton. If the weather holds and paddling is easy, I should be out of the Fort Peck Reservation by tomorrow, and into North Dakota by the next day.

And it has been a full week off work, and it has not crossed my mind at all. Usually when on vacation, it comes to the forefront several times. Maybe this transition will be easier than I thought. I have however thought of some of the people I have worked with – wondering if we will maintain contact.


May 26 – A Week and Rethink.

I miss my warm office, with its comfy chair, coffee maker, treats in the cupboard, Marilyn’s red and black jujubes on my desk … bathroom down the hall. Okay,maybe I am missing the creature comforts – not work. Probably had to do with the weather today and few options to hid from it.

Woke up early this morning to wind, low ominous clouds and thick fog. Made the decision to pack up and go before everything got wet and minimally find a more sheltered site downriver.

Morning fog

Breakfast was a protein bar on the water, caffeine was a tea infusion into my drinking water (had them since liquidation world was in Cranbrook – they are quite good,. And yes Marilyn the best before date is only 2011). In about 2 hours the fog burned off and the clouds started to lift, but the wind persisted all day. It was after lunch before I warned up enough to take my outer jacket off.

Meet two people on the water today and a bunch fishing from the bank. When the hook a fish they real it in and the give a big hoist and turn to lift it up the 10 foot bank. One of the people I met on the water had a pontoon boat with a number of people on it huddled down out of the wind. When asked about a recommendation for a good place to camp, he told me there was a great pull out at the bridge up the way that had a picnic area and cement toilets. Sounded perfect – and I would be off the river early. Well it had everything, but the Department of Transportation did not allow overnight camping. So after using the facilities it was back on the river.

Spent an additional 2 hours looking for a place to stop that was not too muddy getting into, and that had protection from the wind. Finally given the lateness of the day had to settle on neither. Up to my knees in mud, on an open sandbar. Constant wind with heavy gusts. You had to watch the water for big gusts coming across, and set up the tent in the lulls. Tent is reinforce with half the paddle shovelled into the sand to use as an addition anchor so the wind side and a log down either side of the tent. Did not have time to let go and find a rope to secure the tent to the paddle – so used the pole bag. Cooked a quick supper, stripped off outside and hung muddy pants on a piece of driftwood, and headed into the tent.

Indications of mud

So after a week on the river, I am still enjoying it – but getting a wee bit tired of the wind and mud. My arms and elbows are ache a wee bit, and I can’t get the grit out of my mouth and nose. I am wary of looking in a mirror, and need to find a good campsite in the next couple of days where I can replenish food, wash clothes, and have a shower.


May 27 – Miscalculation

Laid in bed this morning hoping that the sun would burn through the low clouds and warm things up. It didn’t, however the wind have died down considerable. Made coffee and breakfast and packed up camp, but was not looking forward to another foray with the mud. Have decided to try a different tactic. Zip off pant legs, take off pool shoes, load everything in bear feet and legs. When done, jump in boat and use bailing sponged to mop the mud off me and bottom of kayak. Flip on pant legs, but don’t zip up ( keeps legs from burning, but pant legs come off quickly if get stuck on a submerged sandbar ( and there are lots). Seemed to work okay, loading and getting into the boat, but the backwater eddy that I was in either lost water overnight, or the winds had pushed more water in and that was not present. Either was I had to get out 3 times and pull the boat through. Once involved throwing myself across the kayak cockpit in order to extract myself from the mud. By the time I made it to the open river I was exhausted.

By just afternoon, the sun broke through and it was a gorgeous day. Breeze was light, if there was any, and it was a peaceful day. I received one brief TXT from Deb this morning, but then lost all signal and was not able to reply, or post blog. Deb had indicated that I should stop at the info centre where the Yellowstone joins the Missouri, and get a detail map of Lake Sakajewia. In looking at the distance involved, I did not think I could make it there today, especially with my later start, so and going to aim for the campground and fishing area at Snowden bridge that I had been told about. It also had a dock, which will make getting out a dream.

It was such a nice day that I did not paddle to hard, and spent much of the day floating and watching the scenery. There are lots of Eagles and pelicans fishing on the water – and an annoying number of Canada Geese – squawking when you are within sight. Muskrats are plentiful, and have seen several beaver and otters. Even had a coyote trot along a sand bar keeping pace with me. Also saw couple of oil pumping horses, and a sour gas burnoff flame in the distance, so getting into oil as well as ranching country.

Eventually could see the tall pillions of bridge, in the distance, so started to keep my eyes open. Noticed a man out running his dogs, and asked him where the campground was. He indicated that it used to be right there. Apparently the floods this year had wiped everything out, except for the bathroom, and they were just starting to reopen the site. No dock, steep bank, but trees and a bathroom – I decided to stop. In talking to the gentleman, he indicated that the floods and ice dams did considerable damage this year. He also said that the destruction and fast run off has added considerable to the “river mud” but it is always present. He also indicated that I was about 4 miles to the North Dakota border, and another 4 to the confluence with the Yellowstone. He indicated that there was camping there with running water, etc., and that it should not be too crowded now that picklefish season was over. Boats, like the pontoon boat, of boats with flat bow decks, are ideal, in that you can nudge the front end in, and jump to the higher, more solid ledge with the bow rope and tie off. Does not work well in side exiting kayak. Even a canoe would be better, in you exit from the bow. Maybe I miscalculated the boat.

Sitting on edge of where the 20 campsites were washed away

Other than the frustration of landing and departing and trying to be cautious of my knee, everything else is good. We will see what they say in regard to camping spots on Lake Sakajewia, as hopefully it will be better with less current.


May 28 – Snowden / Confluence.

Although, cool to cold overnight, the sun had the tent toasty warm by 8:30. As this is planned to be a short day (about 4 miles to the state line and then another 4 to the Yellowstone and Missouri River Confluence) there was no rush to leave. Had one coffee with my bacon, cheese and peppers omelet, and a second for in the boat. The water dropped a couple of inches overnight, so although it was easy to load the kayak, pushing it off was another matter. Alternating between moving front and back over 3 – 4 inches each time until you get the front to float. Each time sinking deeper into the sand / mud. Then push off and belly jump across the cockpit to get your legs unstuck, and then gracefully try and get into the proper position. I am sure a video of it would be very amusing.

The river was smooth, there was almost no breeze, and the sun already had heat. Stripped down to shorts and life jacket and put on the sunscreen. Around the corner was the Snowden Bridge. It is an old, 1900’s bridge with a middle section designed to open, when there was a vision of bigger river traffic coming up the river. Two tall pillars extend upward on either side of the opening section, and giant concrete counterweights hang, ready to lift the Bridge. Apparently it only lifted once, to prove it was operational, when first build, and the anticipated river traffic never came. The pylons that go into the water are all big plates of thick steel, surrounding concrete for ballast – bolted together to stop the onslaught of trees and ice during flood season. (Locals told me that one of the plates on the centre pylon had separate during this spring flood and the were debating how best to fix.

Snowden Bridge

Homes / Ranches / Estates are getting fancier along the river now and you are starting to see more places posting no trespassing signs. Also see more jet boats on the river.

Pulled into the confluence, shortly after lunch. There was a dock, which meant no mud, although a big step up out of the kayak. There was only one other tent set up, and one couple down fishing. There is a concrete Buffy, two water stations, and covered cooking shelters, to provide shade. Pick a close by site, carried the essential gear up and set it on the table. Walked about a half mile up to the interpretative centre, and tried to pay for camping. Apparently camping at the interpretative centre is free, but they do not run the campground by the dock. Well although I am cheap, I was not about to pack all my stuff up the hill – so ended up paying $20 for two nights.

The staff at the interpretative centre were very friendly and were eager to assist, but could not give me much information on the state of camping or damage on the reservoir. Some of the camping sites are operated by the band’s, and other are just boat launches, that may not allow camping. End up giving me a free North Dakota road map- not what I was looking for, but has basic layout.

The confluence is not only where the Yellowstone and Missouri meet up – but is also the point of land where Lewis and Clarke reunited after taking separate routes.

Quiet evening, treated myself to beef stroganoff since I had the time and bigger work area. Tomorrow will be a laundry, shower, and resupply my weekly food bag (I only have one packet of coffee left so it is time to go digging into breakfast supplies.


May 29 – Sunned, Rested and Bailed.

Although it took a while for the sun to burn through the clouds, it was again a very warm day. Leisurely breakfast, them washed and hung my cloths up to dry. Put the portable shower up and waited for the sun to heat that before stripping down to bathing suit for a great shower. Some older lady drove by was I was part way through and honked her horn. (think she needs her eye site checked).

Laundry Day

Had a number of visitors stop by, including one old character who had lived in the area all his life. Says he has seen a number of people go through in canoes, but usually in July / August. He said the river mud is what it is – you step on stop and your fine, the next you sink to your thigh. Says it’s because of the high clay content, and the ultra fine silicate, – it’s not grandular like sand, more like flour. Says it goes on so several hundred more miles like that. He indicated on the upcoming lakes I should look along the cliffs (70 foot high) where part had collapsed into the water, as they are often older and drier, and will only have a thin line of mud right at the edge. Also look for rocky streams, but the are far between and are mostly underwater stlll. It will take another month or so for water to get down to the point of exposing them. He said by that time the water turns (algae bloom in the backwaters and oxbows and anything but moving water is pretty stinky. The old guy also said the Corp of engineers no longer take you around the dams, once they labelled the areas recreation areas, so I would have to hope that someone would help me around. He said that was hard to find because although they all drive trucks “they are too pussy to use them as a truck. (He had early 90’s Chev S10 with racks and a flat box that his Australian Collie road on). He wished me luck on my trip – saying he was headed up the Yellowstone a ways tomorrow. Would have been an interesting guy to spend more time with.

I spent the early afternoon trying to research the lakes ahead and the degree of spring flood damage they encountered. Info is poor or out of date at best.

What I have not been honest about is that 3 days ago, I tweaked my newly repaired knee, and it has weighed heavily on my mind. Being that it is very recent surgery, any injury sustained to it would not be covered by my travel medical. The purpose of this trip was to decompress, find myself again, and not cost a lot of money. The fact that the river mud will not get any better, and the worry of potential huge medical bill pulling my leg out of the mud has me worried. Deb and I texted back and forth on options for the last two days. I even tried to come up with a way to carry 2 x 12 long enough to support my weight over the mud, but there is no easy place to carry it ( the old guy said it should be 4 feet long to be sure). Given time or for knowledge, I may have been able to come up with a plastic grid mat system that I could have laid in the floor of the cockpit and deployed when getting out. However that would require tools and materials I don’t have access to here. Alternatively, I could have waited till both knees were better, but the opportunity for surgery came up and it was strong enough to get in and out of the boat that I thought it would be a good was for it to recover. Didn’t know about or count on this depth or adhesive nature of this mud.

Had a great Shepherds Pie for my mid-afternoon meal, and the walked back up to the Interpretive Centre to use the wifi and check other options. My aunt lives about a three hour drive north of here and maybe she could come down for a visit and with access to a vehicle, I might be able to jimmy rig a solution. However with motel rooms being a premium in the area and very expensive, that did not seem realistic ( the have been two guys in the campground that are working and waiting for motel units).

The one couple who I met fishing here the first night came back to check on me. He works with the Williston Police force, and her family has lived here all their lives. He had knee surgery about 2 years ago, and understood my reservations about the mud. So after some back and forth with Deb, and some soul searching, I have decided to take him up on his generous offer drive me in to Williston tomorrow to make a long story short, he will pick me up tomorrow morning, and drop me off at a car rental company.

Although it feels like wimping out, the potential of a huge medical bill, or re-injuring something that is in the process of healing is too great. The mud was weighing on my mind and talking all the fun out of it, and was making loading and unloading a drudgery and ordeal.

Things around Williston are stupidly expensive due to boom around oil. There are people living in camp and trailers, and was told stories how last year farmers were renting out small pieces of field for $1500 a month, with no water, sewer or electric – until the county put a stop to it. Hotel rooms are hard to find and very expensive. Even the car rentals are steep, with the most economical costing over $170 a day. Hence my plan is to rent the car, come back and load gear and kayak, and then drive quickly to Cincinnati to unload at the Scion and only to have the rental for 2 days.


May 30 – June 2 Road Trip ….

May 30 – Up early and began packing all of the stuff from the kayak up to the campsite, and then proceeded to drag the kayak up the grass incline so it was as close to the road as possible to load. Then started to jettison unnecessary items in the commercial dumpster here as there would not be an opportunity when I got to the storage facility. I gave Tom, the gentleman from Florida, who was camping while waiting for a hotel room, some food and surplus spice kit items. I kept enough for a couple of weeks and train ride home, but that was about it.

Ken and his daughter, showed up to give me a ride into Williston at about 10:20, and had me dropped off at the Airport by 10:45. Even though I was able to book the car the night before using the wifi at the interpretive center, the car was not ready until noon, so had to wait for an hour.

The rental I received was a Tuscon with no roof racks. If I wanted to pay an extra 75 per day I could get racks. Sorry, too cheap. Went back to the interpretive centre and loaded everything into the back of the car, and the using a combination of thermarest, sleeping bag and other round stuff sacks, carefully loaded kayak on roof trying not to scratch the car. Some creative struggles, including flipping the kayak over while on the roof – but was able to manage by myself. Headed off down the road at about 3:10 – with probably half a dozen stops in the first 30 miles to adjust and tighten. Stopped at the first major town to by pool noodles to put between kayak and roof, but no luck. Had to settle for pipe insulation. It did not like travelling at freeway speeds, so stuck to secondary roads.

When I crossed the Missouri River 300 miles south, it was in flood, and the campground I had planned to stop in at the edge of town a a potential rest and recover site, was all underwater. Maybe, deciding to quit was the right decision as conditions were not getting better down river. Stopped at an almighty Walmart, at about 11 PM, and found pool noodles and managed to jam them in. Continued throughout the night, stopping in a McDonalds parking lot on the outskirts of Minneapolis at about 4:00 AM and grabbed a couple of hours of sleep.

Homes flooded by Missouri

May 31 –

Up at 6:30, quick McD’s breakfast and a big coffee and on the road again. The backroad driving that the GPS has me on in order to avoid freeway speeds has me going through some pretty country – but is definitely adding time to my trip. Unfortunately, it also put me going through the edge of Chicago ( down by Joliet) at evening rush hour on a Friday. Managed to get caught up in a traffic jam there and was tied up for almost an hour before was able to travel at highway speeds. Ended up pushing into the outskirts of Cincinnati at about 4:00 AM and stopped at a Waffle House for breakfast and coffee. The last hour of the drive had been through the windy and foggy river valley, which would have been more fun on more sleep, but was enough adrenaline to keep me awake. Once breakfast was done, drive to area of the storage lot, and grabbed a couple of hours sleep in an office complex parking lot.

Crossed over the Mississippi today and it was in flood as well, with part of the buildings on the lower levels being either partially under water or cut off with roads and bridges being flooded. News reports also indicated that the flood level on the Arkansas River was 28 feet, and that the water was now over 40 feet, and there had been a major breach in one of the levees.

Had texted Deb a couple of times along the way to keep her updated on my progress and plans. Had suggested that I would do a few hikes around Kentucky, and then caught Amtrak home – being back for our anniversary. Deb sort of questioned whether this was giving me enough time to find myself, and then made it clear that she was really enjoying the break and why don’t I stay away a bit longer. So will have to give some thought as to what I want to do – and come up with some other plans.


June 1

In Kentucky coincidentally on Kentucky statehood day. Checked into the hotel that I usually stay at by the Cincinnati airport, and the were extremely busy, but would probably have a room available after 3:00.

Went to the storage facility, and Steve, the owner was there. He helped me to both unload the kayak from the rental car and load it on the Scion. (I had texted Steve from the Williston airport and asked him to put the spare key he had into the door lock – as I had not planned to come this way. There is a full set of car and cabin keys in the ashtray, but I usually bring my original set from home. )

Had the rental car back to the company by 11:00, after hunting around for the return area ( as the airport is undergoing major renovation and the return location is not with the other rental companies but across the freeway a ways away from the airport) and after doing about 20 minutes of buffing to get the scratches out of the roof, and removing the emergency toe hook from the front bumper that I used as a tie down point.

Steve gave me a ride back from the rental car company, and then, before I left I contacted the insurance company and put collision and liability insurance back on the Scion ( after 2 times being disconnected). The only thing I did not have was the decal on the license plate – but being Saturday there was little I could do about it. It is bought and paid for, just not on the plate. Decided to take the risk and drive – as the sticker is the same color, so would have to be pulled over for them to notice. Will try to get it rectified in Cadiz on Monday.

Kayak on my XB –

As I could not get into a room until 3:00, made the decision to push for Bardstown, figuring rooms were cheaper, and I could go to the Talbott later.

Drive the 140 miles to Bardstown. Although the kayak held much better on the roof racks on the Scion, the little car seemed to balk a bit at doing anything more than 70 mph, and cross winds would send you all over the place.

Pulled into my usual motel at about 2:30, and was immediately checked into usual corner room. Took off my shoes, turned on the air conditioner – and promptly went to sleep. Guess I was a wee bit tired after only four and a half hours sleep in the last 48 hours. Also the knee and leg were a little gibbled from all the time sitting.

When I woke up, it was dark out. Showered, out on a clean set of cloths and headed to Nannies Kitchen, for a Hot Brown. Unfortunately, the grill shut down at 9:00 and it was 9:45. Hurried across the street to the Talbott as their grill was still open for another 15 minutes and was able to sneak in order of Blackened Shrimp and Grits.

So after all the driving and changing of plans, ended up watching game 3 of the Stanley Cup finals, having Bourbon Ale, and some Bourbon to finish off the night. Not bad – other than I was lamenting being alone, as I have share this bar with so many friends and family – Cam, Randy, Shane, and Keith.

Walked back to the hotel after the game – and back to bed.


June 2 – Kayak away

Up to a later start, had another shower ( because I could) and then went to Pat’s Place for breakfast. Had a wonderful stuffed French Toast (2 pieces of French toast with sausage gravy in between).

Bardstown

Arrived in Cadiz about 2:00pm and headed out to the cabin after picking up some ratchet straps. Worked the afternoon in the 85 degree head getting the kayak and related gear, hoisted up in the shed. ( Step by step process involving Bungee straps and an extension ladder as a second hand – alternating from one end to the other.). After finishing, briefly checked the cabin and opened a few windows in order to hopefully cool it down so I can possibly do some clean while there.

Kayak in new home
Barkley State Campground

Over to Barkley State Park. $14 a night to camp with free showers – so booked for 3 nights. They also have a fitness club over by the lodge and for $5 a day you can have access to the pool, sauna, hot tub and gym equipment. After getting the tent set up, went into Cadiz to the Mexican restaurant, and had a really nice shrimp and beef with onions and peppers severed over a bed of rice. Will pick up some fresh food when I am back in town tomorrow trying to get my license plate decal. Sat in the Scion writing up the journal – and watching all the fireflies dancing around outside. I never get over how magical the look whenever I come south.

And so, the kayak is in Kentucky, but not really via the route or means I had planned. My face and arms have almost finished peeling, and I am starting on my next layer of tan. Maybe I am learning the flexibility and adaptability I was looking for – but in a slightly different way. (however, I am getting a tad bit too old for the 48 hr., 1700 mile road trips – just saying).


June 3 – Inspect or not Inspect

Up, and after a shower at the campground, headed I to Cadiz to see about my license plate decal. First stop was the insurance agency, and sure enough the decal was waiting for me, along with other mail they had collected. Got an oil change on the Scion, as mileage wise it was about due, and then went to the cabin to see its overall state and what I could do.

The cabin had held up fairly well and the temporary patch I had put in the floor under the living room window, seemed to have held, and there were no signs of recent critter activity. However, it was hot – real hot. That is what you get for having a cabin with minimal insulation, wrapped in tin. Opened a few windows and did up some measurements for a more permanent fix to the floor.

Met with the neighbours across the way and they continue to keep an eye on things. Indicated that the cabin on the other side of the vacant lot was bought by a family from Florida. They had done a lot of work levelling and cleaning the place up. They are supposed to be back next week, if I am still around.

Went into Cadiz to see about getting the power hooked up. The lady at Pennyrile indicated that since the power had not been hooked up since 2011, I would have to get an inspection done. She gave me the card of an electrical inspector, and would have to have his approval before they could put the power on. This is a wee bit worrying, as when we bought the cabin, there were no building codes and now there appears to be some. Will debate whether I want to proceed with the inspection or not.

Back to the campground for the evening. Opened all the screen up on the tent to try and get it to cool down. Thankfully a bit of a breeze came up off the lake and helped make it bearable.


June 4

Up, showered (oh is this a luxury) and found the once place in the campground where I could get cell reception. Sought advice from Deb re: electrical inspection, and decided it best to minimally know what we were getting into. Called the inspector – but he is unfortunately booked until the weekend. That has therefore decided my timetable to a certain extent. Will move to the cabin tomorrow and live out of there for rest of week

Off to Hopkinsville, to pick up building material. Got enough pine shelving to build a bookcase on the other side of the living room window and integrated that into the more permanent floor fix. Also want to integrated a bench under the window, but will wait until after inspection is done as one of the potentially problem plugs is located there. Also replaced the tarp door cover on the shed, with new tarps and made it more substantial. I had forgotten how hot and humid it was, and any bit of physical exertion gets you drenched in sweat.

Came back to the campground and took another shower to cool down and clean off. Turned on data momentarily, to get email, and received a heavy rainfall advisory for Cadiz area. Supposed to arrive in the early hours of the morning. Not wanting to pack up a wet camp, I made the decision to move to the cabin tonight. As it was getting dark I quickly threw everything in the Scion, and headed the 8 miles to the cabin. I then went about setting up futons, etc., under headlamp. Took till about 2 o’clock before it cooled to the low 80’s to go to sleep.


June 5

No rain overnight, but cloudy, so temperature did not cool down much. Hot and humid and temperature rising. Headed to the fitness center, and after showering, spend about 3 hrs, in and out of pool. The covered area had heating and cooling options in it, and as the building is on a point in the lake, by opening the big screened windows on both sides you got a nice breeze.

My oasis –

When I finally got back outside the heat nearly knocked me out. Into Reva’s, for breakfast special – $6.25 for 2 eggs, hash browns, sausages, toast and coffee, plus free wifi. Enables me to check email, and get caffeine fix without having to try and cook at cabin.

Then off to Murray, to see if they had any other building supply options. The new bridges across to The Land Between the Lakes are a great addition, and now have sidewalks with bike access which will make it nice to bet to the riding trails. They are also two lane each way which means you are no longer taking your life in your hands, when the oversized loads come at you.

It was hot, and every time you went from car to outside or store to outside, the heat hit you like a wall. Have a picture of the digital sign at Murray Bank showing it was 95 degrees at 5:20 in the afternoon. Threatened rain and thunderstorms all day, but still nothing. The storm system seems to be skirting both sides of us with major rain in Nashville and St. Louis.

Sat on a knoll outside of Cadiz and talked to both Deb and Keith, partly because it was time and partly because I did not want to go back to the hot cabin. It was great to hear their voices and get caught up.


June 6

Light rain started at about 3 in the morning, but nothing substantial. Clouded over most of the day, and temperature cooler- low 80’s, but nothing of the major rainfall they had predicted. Worked at cabin until I got too hot and then went to the pool for my shower and soak.

Today is the start of the 400 mile garage sale, at least for the eager sellers – although the majority will still occur on the weekend. With the weather not being that promising, some of those that were set up were fairly motivated. Picked up a couple of things cheap, but spent the majority of my time looking. It was nice to be out moving around when it is a bit cooler.

Yard Sale Find – $7 Camp Table and $8 Lantern

June 7

Again a bit of rain overnight, and cloudy this morning but not much. Enough to keep the vendors covering and uncovering their goods. One lady had it figured out as she had all her goods displayed in clear plastic bags, and therefore did no go into panic if it rained. Back into Hopkinsville after the pool, and picked up the remaining wood for my window bench. Will put it together after inspection done, as there is one plug that I will need to leave access to. The locals told me about a new restaurant Greg’s Grill in Canton that had great BBQ that I needed to try. Unfortunately without being Friday of the yard sale they were sold out of most things by the time I got there. Had to settle for a hamburger, and although good, was far from the BBQ I was envisioning. Will have to try at some future date.

Picked up some battery powered LED remote operated puck lights at Big Lots, and mounted them on the beams in the cabin. Although not great light, they given enough to see and function in the evening. Will just have to remember a supply of AAA batteries, next time we come down. ( enough to get by until they turn the power on – or adequate for an overnight stop).

Working in the cabin without power, is really feeling old. Everything is dim – no matter how open the curtains are, and you find yourself squinting all the time. We will see how we do on the inspection tomorrow and whether real lights are an option.

June 8 – Passed Inspection

Rain started in earnest about 3:00 AM this morning and by the time I got up, although the rain had stopped there was about an inch of water pooled in the yard.  Met the 78 year old electrical inspector, at the church down the road and had him follow me back to the cabin.  After looking at everything and getting a sense about what I was planning to change, we passed the inspection.  I had to commit to upgrading a few things as we worked on it over the years, but he was not going to hold up turning power on.  His report will be in iffy Monday morning, and with any luck and a deposit I should have power and air conditioning by Monday night.  The old guy has Parkinson’s disease which is why he gave up being an electrician, but treats it by boxing on the heavy bag three times a weak.  Says it helps him not get the shakes.  Interesting character. 

The cabin is a truly peaceful place.  Deer walk by in the wooded lot next door, and then turn and come up to the window and stare in.  The variety of birds that are here, that we don’t see at home.  Had a cardinal sit on the one banister and admire his reflection in the window for about 3 minutes.  The frogs and crickets at night add a constant chorus.  Something (I think a raccoon) comes up on the back deck at night and pushes things around to see what I have been doing (primarily where I have been cutting and assembling my bookcases and window bench).  This  place has been unoccupied for so long I believe the wildlife thinks it’s more theirs than mine.

One of many fauns passing through yard

However, there some other unusual noises, that you need to get used to.  The cabin is about 30 miles from Fort Campbell, and they use the area for helicopter rappelling and jumping into water, rafts, and extraction.  They also use it for night flight training.  So you can have upward of 5 big helicopters coming in and soldiers in wet suits jumping out.  They usually wind up by 10:30 at night, but for awhile you feel you are in a war zone.  I have watched them before out on the lake in the daylight, but this is my first after dark experience.

New Barkley Lake Bridge

Headed over to the pool, and to text Deb – to wish her Happy Anniversary (34 years) and tell her about the inspection.  I think she was genuinely surprised and pleased that we passed. 

As I listened to the rain last night and this morning, I had a sense that they water is coming in around the air-conditioner in the front room, cause the floor to rot.  Therefore took measurements with the intent to buy material to make a cover.  However on the way to Murray, came up with using once of the clear window well covers as stain deflector.  Great idea, and relatively cheap.  Only one problem, Lowe’s in Murray has discontinued stocking them.  The Lowe’s in Hopkinsville had 20 of them in stock (should have gone the other way).  Picked up another 6 battery operated led puck lights.  I now have enough to light the cabin for a couple of days while awaiting power to be turned on – or if we are just overnighting and not going to bother with power.  Attached them to the exposed beams, and they are enough to illuminate the place with low level lighting – enough to function by. ( Actually the soft light makes the cabin look attractive, hiding all its flaws).

The rain started up again at about 2:30 in the afternoon, and was a constant light rain, with several five minute downpours.  It put a damper on the yard sales, as most retreated for cover.

Treated myself to a feed of liver and onions, and a local home cooked restaurant.  Finished it off with a piece of peanut butter pie that the cook insisted that I have.  (It was exquisite).  It is probably the biggest meal that I have had in three weeks, and was feeling absolutely stuffed.  On the Way-back to the cabin ran into a swarm of the big fish flies.  Within 20 seconds the window was so smeared you could hardly see.  The headlights showed that the road was covered in dead bugs.  Feel sorry for anyone on a motorcycle or convertible.

June 9 –

Rained lightly for a good portion of the night, and was heavy overcast when I got up.  Headed towards Hopkinsville to get some 2×4’s and window we’ll covers.  Many of the yard sales had either given up due to the weather, or being Sunday and we’re off to church.  Stopped at a few, but did not make any significant purchases. 

Hits two major rain deluges over the course of the day but by 3:00 it had started to clear up.  Stopped at  Harper’s Table, there place by the highway and had a great shrimp and grits.  They add pork belly to the cayenne and turmeric broth, and it is a nice mixture of tang and spice to a traditional dish.  Owner / manager was more than encouraging I come back and watch the game – and apologized that they had not been able to get the county to change the by-law banning alcohol sales on Sunday – yet.  Also got a recommendation from the waitress to check out her other gig – the restaurant and bar at Eddie Creek Marina – about 20 minutes away.  Great food and live bands every Saturday.

Headed back towards the cabin and spotted a laundry mat so stopped to do a wash.  (Carried my dirty clothes with me this morning in case I ran across a laundry).  Was the only one there, but four of the machines were full, so obviously people start there laundry and then go do something else.

Finally made it back to the cabin about 5:00.  Put in a couple of hours installing the window wells covers over the air conditioners, and permanently mounting the LED puck lights (the self adhesive tape does not hold up in the high humidity.).  The squirrel was not impressed with the cover, he was used to jumping onto the roof from a tree branch, and then off by using top window ledge to air conditioner to propane tank to ground.  Well, he jump from the window ledge, hit the clear cover, panic and tried to grab on and ended sliding right onto the propane tank.  He was pissed and started chattering, and I started laughing.  He the stopped and just stared at me.  He’s no impressed, and I am sure is already scheming some sort of revenge.  One of the old guys on the yard sale, had invented and patented a squirrel Skinner.  Maybe I should have picked it up and mounted it in the back deck as a warning.  (Actually the Skinner worked quite well, would have saved a lot of time when we were running the trap line in scouts.  The old boy could skin a squirrel and have the meat out in about 3 minutes.)

Air Conditioner Cover or Squirrel Slide

Ended up getting all hot and sweaty, and without the benefit of the pool (closed Sundays).  Did a quick

Sponge bath before bed, so I could stand myself, and then settled in to read for the evening until it cooled down enough to sleep.

June 10

Up to a clear day, with a bit of a breeze.  Nice change.  Did some organizing around the cabin, and then headed into Cadiz to pay deposit and get power turned on. 

All the we weather brought a new driving challenge.  Animals were migrating from one pool to another, crossing the roads.  Had to swerve to miss 11 turtles (from small – 3 inches to large – about 17 inches) 2 otters, and about a dozen snakes.  Debated the snakes but figured that if I let them leave maybe they will repay the favour some day.

Dropped the 10 weed eater I got from yard sale to be serviced, and then into Pennyrile Electric Cooperative to pay my deposit and get the power turned on.  Back to the cabin to take advantage of the breeze and make some storage rails for the covered carport so that some things could be stored and secured outside.  Kept checking the lights, as they can turn the power on remotely, but nothing was working.  Then noticed that the timer on the stove was flashing.  Checked the breakers and the range, air conditioner, and dryer were all active, but the circuit that operated the lights and power plugs was not.  Quickly into town to get cell connection and found an electrician who would come out tomorrow morning. Back to the cabin to finish off a bit of work, before heading to catch the pool before it closes.

Organizationally, things seem to be coming together.  Rather than the cabin being a storage facility I am starting to find things and make it a bit more livable.  Really enjoying how quiet it is out here, and puttering away at things.  Town is a bit of a drive away, so have to plan trips and purchase needs, so as to not go too often.  However try to take a different back road as often as I can to learn the area .

June 11 – Stood Up but Made Out.

The electrician was supposed to be here at 9:30 but at noon still no sign of him.  This is one of the things everyone warns you about.  Contractors are all really friendly, but not reliable.  The local Ace Hardware refuses to give recommendation as a result.  Went into town far enough to get cell reception and left a voice message. 

Went back home, and started to tackle the remnants of the unwanted guests – squirrels and mice.  Took down two sets of kitchen cupboards, and cleaned out everything inside.  ( Boil water I had brought from Campground on the electric stove and poured into sink to wash everything.  Then dried and put in plastic containers).  Cutlery drawer and under the kitchen sink, were by far the worst.  Need better light to do a thorough job but got first couple of layers. 

Mice and Squirrels – and they don’t even help with rent …

However while doing cleaning and waiting on Electrician,  Trigg county came by cleaning out the ditches.  Got the gentleman to dig out the one end of the culvert and put the dirt in the hollow coming off the road, where I bottom out.  The guy said he would come back after the next big rain and see where the water was bubbling out and dig out the other end of the culvert, and add more dirt to the depression.  Great score.  Saved me money for a load of gravel.

Finished installing the storage bars in the shed, and started moving out golf clubs, fishing gear, tents, etc.,  after cleaning them.  This gives more room in the cabin and not stepping around and over this stuff.  It also gives the mouse and squirrels less place to mess up.

After cleaning up first layer of squirrels and mice,  felt absolutely dirty, so headed to the pool.  They all joke with me knowing my situation and wanted to know if I had lights yet.  Took full advantage of shower and pool, and went back to the cabin about 8:30.   Put the air conditioner on for about 20 minutes to cool the place down, but that was all it took.

June 12

Don’t hear the early morning bird symphony, with the cabin windows closed – sort of miss it.  It was like a slowly increasing alarm.  Waited around till 10:00 this morning in case the Electrician got the wrong day, and was just about to leave when, the tree trimmer (Jeff) from Pennyrile came by.  Looked at the tree and line in question and indicated that it would the home owners problem to remove the tree but they would come and drop the service lines for free.  Ended up talking to him for a bit, and the he indicated that the bucket truck was just finishing up in the park, and maybe he could have them come and move the line to the other side of the tree.  He made a call and was told the bucket truck was just finishing up and had a bit of time before lunch break and would be right over.  Jeff lumber the tree on the lee side and Duck and Matt had the line dropped in no time.  Then they discovered that some of the line was rotten from age and elements, and had to spice together a line from pieces they had on the truck.  They indicated that they would grab a full length of cable for a proper repair and agreed to do it in two weeks after I was gone.  Again, fortuitous timing and great people who ended up saving me money.

Headed into Cadiz to check on the status of the weed eater and to try and contact the Electrician.  Was able to get through to them right away, and they indicated that they were just finishing up a job and could come out as soon as they had lunch.  They stated that they tried to find the place yesterday but we’re unsuccessful.  Have them more detailed directions and said I would be home within the hour.

They showed up, diagnosed and fix the problem within 5 minutes of arriving.  The fuse on the pole outside that feed the house circuit was faulty.  They said that almost never happens with that type of fuse and usually don’t carry then, but they were installing a new breaker box with those type of fuses on the previous job and had one in the van.  Again fortunate.  The cost was $120 including the service call.  I now have light and power, but no refrigerator.  Figure that is a squirrel related issue, that I will tackle tomorrow when I have work lights and vacuum handy.

Headed into Hopkinsville, to Lowe’s with the measurements to the shelving material for the book case and storage unit in the bedroom.  Figured now that I had light and access to power tools I may as well build that, and allow me to put more stuff properly away.  Got through the store with them cutting up my boards and was back in Cadiz by 6:00.    There were some dark clouds on the horizon and sine the pool closes for 30 minutes if there is a lightening strike in the area – figured I would not risk it.   Stopped by the Harper House bar, and had a beer (Cougar Bait larger)  and watched the prelude to the hockey and basketball games.  Indulged in another Shrimp and Grits but stayed away from the toffee cake dessert as I did not want to hurt all night.  Chatted with Sterling the bartender, as well as the lady from the Paducah tourist information centre.  The manager of the restaurant, spotted that I was back, and comment on how the shrimp and grits must be drawing me back, but I really should try their barbeque. Headed back to the cabin, and tried to find the game on the radio but without success.  Ended up listening to jazz on NPR out of Murray State university and reading.  Nice to have light and music.

Shrimp and Grits, and a Glass of Cougar Bait

June 13 – Local building supplies and weed eating.

Leisurely morning.  Coffee on the stove, and sat on the back deck watching world go by.  Being the wooded lots behind beside me, means that the animals are used to using this as a thoroughfare.  While I drank my two cups of coffee – I watch 6 female deer and 8 fauns wander slowly through, followed about 20 minutes later by a fox.  The Fox was curious but far more skiddish.  A little later when I went out on the deck I scared up two fauns that had laid down in the tall grass about 15 feet from the deck. 

Went into town to check on the status of the weed eater, and was told they were working on it and I should come back in an hour.  Went to the the building supply store and picked a pine shelf board that I needed- cheaper and better quality than Lowe’s and did not have drive 25 minutes to get it.  (Building has a small footprint, but over the hill they have 3 large lumber storage facilities, and a significant stock.

Back Room Shelving Storage

Went back and picked up the weed eater. $35 to replace the bubble primer and diaphram, plus a half tank of gas and re-spooled a full spindle of string.  As it was not too hot today spent the afternoon weed eating the front yard, and about the first 10 feet of the back.  (did not want to cut the fauns nap area).

With that completed took the plywood backing off the fridge.  (The door of the fridge is in the cabin but the rest is built into the deck with and insulated plywood box build around it).  Two years ago when I stopped by the cabin, the squirrels had eaten a small hole in the back and top of the box.  I have done a temporary fix with spray foam and a partial sheet of plywood I had found, but now it was time to tackle more earnestly.  I also believed that the squirrels were the reason the fridge did not work.  After opening the back panel, I took out half of a big black garbage bag of finely shredded insulation bedding ( why is it they don’t seem to itch when coming into contact with insulation).  I vacuumed up all the squirrel and mouse deposits (yeah for power) and checked all the wires and connections.  No obvious signs of anything wrong, chewed or disconnected. However the junction box is under the deck so could not access.  Don’t have a meter with me so can’t easily check power to the unit.  Will see if I can find a appliance repair person in the area.

In the meantime, took measurements of the plywood I would require to get a sold piece on the top and fix the small back hole with something more substantial than foam.

Finished shoring up the shelving and storage unit in the back bedroom, and took the final measurements to build ad enclosed the window bench.  Then started organizing all the stuff into plastic containers and placing on the two shelves units.  Temporarily this will keep things cleaner until we are here more often and do a better organization.  We have a lot of duplicates, that we can make some decisions on and pare down. 

Watched one of the half dozen videos we had left at the cabin, accompanied with a Lime-gar-rita, and a small bag of chips.  Really felt like I was spoiling myself.

June 14 – Squirrel proofing and final swim.

Up quicker the next morning, and headed into town.  The building supply store not only had some good plywood but cut it up the 4 by 8 piece into proper sizes to make repairs and finish products, but also into sizes that will fit in and in top of Scion.  Went back to cabin and took great pleasure in securing a new roof and back on fridge, and finishing up the window box ( one minor miscalculation – the window box is a half inch too short to have the lid close when  the portable battery is stored in it.  However, since this is only a temporary situation – not critical).

Swept, vacuumed, and spot washed the rest of the cabin – to see if my rodent proofing will make a difference.  Although we well want to do a good wash and cleaning when the water is turned on, it looks considerably better than when I arrived. 

Went for a late afternoon leisurely swim and soak, before treating myself to a Jalisco Special (grilled steak, chicken and shrimp cooked with onions, bell peppers and tomatoes served over a bed of rice), and a Margarita from the local Mexican restaurant.  While there, caught the local weather broadcast and warnings.  There is a major storm system coming our way tomorrow afternoon and lasting 3 days.  There have been tornado and flash flooding to the southwest of us and this slow moving system is scheduled to continue.  Ended up taking half my supper home for the following day. 

June 15 – Rain coming – I’m outta here, but not before a yard sale.

Made the decision part way through the night that rather that riding the rains out here – I would head to the Smokey’s to at least get one good day of weather there.  Therefore, packed up the car, picked up fresh cleaning supplies and moisture rid to leave in the cabin.  Found a yard sale in Canton, and for $6 ended up getting a box of over 80 videos – so we now had a selection to view when we return.

Said goodbye to two sets of neighbours, and headed out around noon.  Intent was to drive the 4 hours to the Smokies and see if camping or hotel was an option.  Made it to Knoxville without issue, but when I started up towards Gatlinburg, the crowds and traffic were so slow moving and bad, that I did no make it further than Severville. The tent sites at the RV parks started at $40, and the hotels close by were $105 and up. Being the weekend, there was a real possibility that the national park would not have any camping sites left.  Ended up taking the back way into Hopkinsville and using bookings.com to find a divey little place for $52 a night.  Nothing special – a lot of semi-permanent residents – but have stayed in far worse.  They had a small fridge and microwave which worked to store my cheese and sandwich meat, and reheat yesterday’s supper leftovers.  Flipped through channels, only to find out that the night Nascar race in Iowa had been rained out – and then zoned off to sleep.

June 16 – Father’s Day / Dollywood

So a real bed for one night in a divey motel is still better than the past week on futons at the cabin.  Slept soundly and not having to wake up and turn over.  Watching the local forecast indicated that it was supposed to a hit beautiful day, but at about 4:00 o’clock the storm system was supposed to roll in. Therefore the plan is to go to Dollywood ( the theme park that noone else would go with me to) and then to make a decision as to what I was going to do from there.

Drove the 25 miles into Pigeon Forge – traffic much lighter, and reached Dollywood about half hour after opening.  Even with that the first two parking lots were already full.  Slathered on the sun screen, and head out into the already 87 degree temperatures.

Dollywood

So, Dollywood, whose tag line is “Love every moment”, is a lot more than Dolly Parton.  Tucked into the the trees and natural surroundings, it has a natural beauty that stands out.  The staff are friendly, but in a natural wholesome way – not the over the top Disney sort of way.  Although there is a museum to Dolly, and the Gospel music Hall of Fame, and country fair feel to some of it, there is a lot more.  People watching was just as good as Disney and the grounds were immaculately clean.  The theme park rides were as good as anywhere with combinations of water, rollercoaster and thrill rides.  There were shows and performances going on in different theatres and stages throughout the park, and wandering musicians.  There were misting centres and water bottle refill stations throughout the park, and any concession would gladly give you a glass of ice water on request. I particularly got a kick out of the family drying booths  outside the exits of the water rides that held up to 5 people and blew warm air to dry you off.  The locals indicated that the fall decoration for Thanksgiving and Christmas were just phenomenal – and that was the best time to visit.  While I was there they announced that if anyone with a single day pass wanted to add $40 to it, they could get a seasons pass.  Tempting, but don’t think I will be back this year. (https://www.dollywood.com/themepark/Rides)

I spent until 3:00 wandering around but the heat and humidity were starting to get a bit much.  Staff around the park started reviewing procedures if the thunderstorms moved in and various reports on ETA.  Made the decision to leave and head north towards Cumberland Falls to see if I could get to an area where the storm had missed and look at camping there.

Well, I was not successful.  Ended up driving all the way to Cincinnati – with two hours that in heavy rain and lightening.  Went to check into my usual hotel and checked the weather report in the front lobby.  They were predicting the storm tonight and another 2 days of heavy rain and flooding.  Used the wifi connection to see when Amtrak ran costs and booking arrangements.  It leaves every morning just after 1:00 AM and arrives Whitefish 40 later.  There was one ticket available tomorrow morning, and then it was sold out for a couple of days and then some available Thursday. 

Made the spur of the moment decision not to book a room but rather grabbed the last train ticket as the hotel was a third of the train ticket, and I could sleep on the train.  Hurried to the storage yard and started tarping the car- but the weather was too quick.

Ended up getting absolutely drenched.  Had to strip off my clothes in on of the open sheds, and change into dry clothes, shoes and socks.  Was able to open the drivers door enough without undoing the tarps, and Ross the wet clothes onto the floor to dry or rot, and locked the door.

Called a cab to come and get me, and take me to the train station, and then sent Deb a text explaining what I had done.  This caused all sorts of discussion around how they they were going to get me from Whitefish home,  when the train arrived 9:00 Tuesday night.  That was still being decided, when the taxi arrived to take me to the airport. 

Cincinnati Train Station Building

.The train depot is in a fancy building just outside of downtown Cincinnati.  The building holds a museum,  gallery, IMAX theatre.  Unfortunately the train station is only open from midnight to 4:00 AM.  However, building security lets you into the train station waiting room, shows you how to access the bathroom, and where the snack vending machines were.  Made arrangements for Deb to call me so we could discuss the reasons for my decision and options to get me home.  Dropping a car off at the train station seemed like the best option – but was not finalized.

Although somewhat hurried due to weather and circumstances, this will get me home in time to see Mick and Arlene and Ross when they come out to Cranbrook for a visit this weekend.  Besides they can’t play Canasta without me.

June 17 – Amtrak-trekked

So the train was supposed to leave at 1:40 AM but was an hour a a half late arriving.  Thankfully, the first  leg of the journey is only as far as Chicago where I have a 4 hour lay over before I catch the other train.  I  was able to get a seat by myself which allowed me to sleep.  The seats recycled with leg rests coming up – so it was like sleeping in an easy chair.  However, the train was dirty and some of the bathrooms were closed because holdings tanks were full. 

Got into Chicago which is a busy station, and not enough room in the waiting area for all the passengers on the various tracks (30 coming into station).  Ended up helping a handicapped lady with a walker move her big suitcase out to the redcap, and as a result the gate attendant allow me to go out and get priority seating with her.  As they seat you by destination, we said our goodbyes, and I was able to secure a window seat. And settled in for the next 31 hours on the train.

Many of the places along the way, the train travels alongside of the river.  In most areas the high water is evident, and you can see places where it has beached the banks and flooded the low lands.  The Mississippi is high and you can see where it flooded some of the city / town levee parks.

Marilyn, my work colleague, sent me a text today congratulating me on my one month anniversary of retirement.  Brought things back into perspective.  Lots done, every plan thwarted, and it did not matter in the least.  Adjusted accordingly and made it work.  Had a great time and really enjoyed myself, and being by myself. However, do miss the family, and once the decision was made to get the train, started looking forward to seeing everyone.

Just got confirmation that Deb has dropped off her vehicle in Whitefish, so I will have a way home, when I get there a day from now.  Also got a request to pick up some beer before I cross the border –  that has made things far more real.  Have drank very little in the month I have been away, and it just seemed like an odd request.

June 18 –

Put headphones in and slept most of night.  Had the seat to myself for the night so it made sleeping easier.  Had bought coffee the night before and put in thermal cup, which meant I could do on coffee as the sun came up – before concession was open.

Pulled into Williston, almost 20 days to the hour from when I rented the car and ended the kayak part of my trip here.  Moved up to the observation car and got a seat facing south so I can see the river that I enjoyed and the mud that beat me.  Beautiful clear day, which made viewing great. When on the river the train was a constant companion, in that you could hear the train whistle miles away as the moved closer to and away from the train tracks. It is amazing how quickly the river goes past at train speed (70 mph).   It was interesting to get perspective on exactly how crooked the river is and why progress took as long as it did.

Got some pictures when the river was close enough, and it almost looks like the river level is up from when I was on it.  Saw one sandbar that I stopped for lunch, close to where a small stream entered, and it is almost underwater, with only the log that I sat on being out of the water.  The sides of the river look so begnine unless you can see a cow path down into the water and mud.  You have no idea what awaits.  The sights does bring back a lot of regrets and my mind keeps popping back to something to retrofit on the kayak, or a different type of cheap boat to try it again. I liked the kayak for its mobility in the standing waves and wind – so am not sure what the best alternative would be.

Camped about an hour away from here.

Regrets, and a bit of pride as well.  Some young boy was travelling with his dad and he was reading highlights out of a book called USA by rail.  It talked about the forts at the confluence, the bridge, the naming of Wolf Point, etc.  The boy made a comment that that although there was the odd person fishing from the shore – why were there no boats on the water like in Wisconsin.  The dad told him the water must be too dangerous.  Rather than say anything, I just smiled, wished them a good trip to Seattle, and left the observation car.

We were slowed down for about half an hour, as there were crews working on the tracks, as it liked like the river had undercut the track brace.  Trains moved slowly going both ways through this area which had things backed up, and will probably delay my arrival in Whitefish.

Had Border Security come on the train and ask if people were American citizens.  If not you had to produce passport or immigration cards. Although I had the passport on me, it was in the secure compartment of my small water bag, inside three layers of waterproof material.  He started questioning all the dry bags and I had to try and explain that this was my go bag from the kayak.  He and his buddy had to come up and look at me fighting to get it out of back of bag and then unwrap it.  At one point buddy placed his hand over his sidearm, and I flashed back to a previous experience with Frankie some 30 years ago and him telling the border agent that doing that must make him “feel like a man” ( that wasted about 4 hrs of our lives).  Being older and wiser, I said nothing, but there may have been a smirk on my face.  After both officers examined the passport, and then figuring I had not waterproof it to swim the Rio Grande – they moved on. Talk about quickly bringing back memories.

The man that got on the train in Williston, was on route to Sandpoint, going home to get married.  As we talked, discovered that he was born and raised in Southern Illinois and Western Kentucky.  He provided me with some additional areas around Paducah for hiking and fishing.  Also told stories of growing up and playing “tag” with Black Racers, and provided helpful information around Copperheads snakes (that don’t have a rattle warning) having a vinegar smell that is distinctive. 

The train ride through Glacier Park in the evening was spectacular.  The early evening light off the mountains and the slow, quiet ride of the train made it quite an experience.  ( As much as I live travelling – I always look forward to coming back into the mountains)

Train pulled into Whitefish, about 30 minutes late, and I found the vehicle in the parking lot, and after a couple of attempts and a text to Keelan for the door code, loaded my gear in the car.  Have to say that even though I had been on the train for 40 hours, I was not stiff or sore, and was well rested.  Would definitely travel by train again – however, if I did it again there would be a couple of additions, ( take a small cooler – could even be electric with the plug ins available,  a light blanket, and a night sleeping mask – as lights don’t go dim enough, and easy slip on and off shoes to wear).

Started driving the couple of hours towards home.  When I arrived at the border had to wait about 10 minutes before the agent saw me and motioned me forward (did not think it would serve me well to start honking the horn).  When he found out that I had been on the Missouri, asked a bunch of questions as it was something the had been interested in doing.  When I pointed out the mud issue, he immediately changed which boat he would use, as he had both a kayak and canoe. 

Arrived home just after midnight, a month after I had started this trek.  Although it did not go as planned, and had to be cut short – and I was disappointed at not being able to complete as intended – it was still very rewarding.  It did get me past the obsessive planning and contingencies that had been my job for the last several years – to being flexible and making the best of the situation.  Although there was the downside of not being able to finish, the upside was that I got a substantial amount of work done at the Cadiz cabin – and it is now in a much better state to receive us in the fall or next spring.

Now to be home – and time to enjoy family and friends.

Solution? – August 15

So, on a trip to the Moyie mall (dump transfer station) today, I stumbled across an object that one of the vacationers had discarded – a styrofoam boogie board. If this was a cartoon, I am sure that there would have been a big glowing lightbulb above my head.

The boogie board was perfect. Light weight, small enough to fit in the open area of the kayak, rigid enough to hold my weight, has a built in tether. Here was my solution to the mud…. Two of these put in mud beside the kayak would get me into solid ground. They would also be buoyant enough that with no weight on them and the tethers, would easily pull out when I pushed off.

I grabbed this new treasure and took it home, and will keep my eyes open for a second on to go with it. They will eventually make there way south and be placed with the kayak.

Anyone who knows me, knows how much I hate to be beaten, and know I have a potential solution to the Missouri mud. Although I know Deb has no interest in doing the river with me, I have one buddy who is retiring in the next year, who has expressed interest in a river trip. So, a return to the Missouri may be in the future – even if nothing more than to prove to myself a solution.