March 4, 2005 –

Up early this morning to take the RV into Lafayette to have the window repaired. After dropping the vehicle off – went back to St. Martin Lake to do a walk around the rookery in the daylight. Walked for about 2 1/2 km around the road looking at and taking pictures of the birds. Mickey was able to see the yellow crested night heron that he has been looking for the last several weeks – unfortunately they are a bit shier than the other birds and did not nest as close to the pathway. The locals all go there to try and see the alligators – and although several people were excited when they saw one – and tried to point it out to the boys – they did not get that excited as they had seen enough in the Everglades.

Returned to Longfellow Evangeline State Park to take in those things which we did not see the previous day. There were also a lot of interpretive guides there – and the boys enjoyed their time with both the Acadian and Native guides. The one older lady that had taken a liking to our boys the day before – was so please to see that we had returned – that she spent a lot of time with us – making sure that we saw everything we could.

There was a delay in getting the motor home fixed – but the people that ran the shop – were very helpful in suggesting different restaurants and things that we should see. They felt that although Mulates was fine for the tourists – there were far better Cajun eating establishments around that would be better. A couple of the places that they suggested were not open to children – however they did sound interesting. One called Fred’s in Mamou opens as 7:00 AM Saturday morning and closes at noon – and if you are not there by 8:00 you will not get a seat. The locals say that by 9:00 everyone is fairly tanked and up dancing. Sounds like an exciting way to start your Saturday morning.

Returned to the campground to find that people had pulled in beside us. Turns out that they live just across the street – but wanted to bring their trailer over to try it out as it had been in storage for about half a year. Jimbo is a contractor in the electrical distribution business – and speaks Cajun French and very fast English and has an interesting Creole accent – French, maritime, southern and black all blended together. Donna was originally from Nevada but had been out here for 20 years. Their grown kids, Jimbo’s parents as well as the campground host also dropped by throughout the evening. Ended up spending the evening with them – thoroughly enjoying their stories and antics. With how they told the stories of Jimbo’s first trip to Nevada – and running up and down the hills chasing chipmunks – it would be great fun to have them come out to our country. Having never been out of bayou and range country, he thoroughly enjoyed ‘mountains’ and animals not seen around here. Great people – true southern hospitality and Jimbo is the perfect image of people that you see from down here with his easy going manner and Cajun zest for life. As Jimbo states the Cajun people seem to use any excuse for a celebration. They say that every weekend there is something going on from crawfish cooks, to wild game cook offs, and dances. He said that about the only thing they don’t celebrate is bacon and ham day – but that will probably come. We were ‘passing a good time’, exchanging stories and sort of debated whether or not we should spend another night here – but it is probably best if we move on.

St. Martinsville – had a big (1,000,000 sq. ft.) Fruit of the Loom factory – that closed down a number of years ago – with the loss of about 4000 jobs. This was a huge hit for the area – and it has been struggling back ever since. Although there are some jobs, and both of Jimbo and Donna’s kids have got work – they are not necessarily the wages that can support a family. Also got into a conversation how the current governor of Louisiana is trying to introduce “sin” taxes on alcohol and tobacco – and the negative reaction by some of the locals. After all, when you can go into a local gas station and buy tins of beer on ice at 50 cents a piece (30 cents cheaper than bottled water, and 50 cents cheaper than pop or juice), it may be a hard thing to sell to the locals.

March 5, 2005 –

Up this morning, and Jimbo and Donna announced that they had gone out and got us some Boudin and Cracklins for breakfast. Wonderfully spicy way to start your day – however the boys decided to augment it with cereal. Locals state that Boudin and beer is the ideal Cajun Breakfast. As this is a travel day I will have to take their word for it.

Mom and Keelan headed over to the ponds to try and catch some catfish. Apparently our equipment is not quite right – as the people on the other side caught more than their supper’s worth in under an hour and despite a couple of bites we were skunked. Oh well – it was probably better than trying to skin it and carry it with us for supper.

Packed up, and after saying our good-byes and thanks to Jimbo and Donna – headed on a short trip down the road to Eunice. On our way through Mowata we saw Jack and Nancy’s Motor Home parked at Bubba Frey’s – but decided to get settled first and try to hook up with them later.

Pulled through Eunice and on to the Cajun Campground. The campground was fairly busy with locals and seemed to be taxing the resources and manpower that they had available. Probably just as well that we are only staying the one night. After getting set up headed back to Bubba Frey’s and made plans to meet up with Jack and Nancy later on in the evening.

Into Eunice to Jean Lafitte National Historic Park – to look at the Prairie Acadian Cultural exhibits. Although small it was a good history of the Acadians, described their deportation and movements as well as the cultural adaptations and influences to make the Cajun culture what it is today. There was a tape recording of a Cajun comedian, which was also quite good. There was also jam session of Cajun music – as well as a quilting and cooking demonstrations (boudin). Dad went out and tried to do some shopping – but it would appear that most of the downtown area closes down at about noon on Saturday (possibly to allow people to play and participate in the musical and cultural events that seem to go on every weekend).

Headed home to the campground for a couple of hours to allow the kids to play before going to the Liberty Theatre this evening. Stopped off at a drive through daiquiri shop on the way home – and had a couple of wonderful fruit drinks back at the campground. Keelan and Mickey tried their hand again at fishing but this time the score was two lost bobbers and no fish.

This was the 902-week of the live radio and local TV broadcast from the Liberty Theatre in Eunice. Tonight there were three different groups – one a historic and traditional Cajun trio (Robert LeBlanc with Mitch and Lisa Reed); another a more modern Cajun band (New Pine Grove Boys) – and the third was a classic violin duo – called the Mennonite Gypsy’s – which had an old European sound to it. A LSU professor – who has been doing this for many years, conducted the emceeing. It was done in both English and French – and this choice seemed to be more based on the language of the performer – rather than the audience. Apparently in addition to the local broadcasts it is also available on the Internet at www.krvs.org. Give it a try!

From there we went to Bubba Frey’s restaurant for our evening meal and some more Cajun music. The food and music was great – with Dad having another three pounds of crawfish. (Mom says that he is getting real fast at eating them – and almost looks like he has been doing this most of his life.) These were the best yet in mom’s opinion – the spice was better and there was some nice shellfish flavour to the crawfish. Almost a perfect Cajun day – boudin and cracklin for breakfast, to go margaritas at lunch and crawfish and beer for supper. Unfortunately, Mickey was suffering from a headache – and the music was bothering him – so we headed home for and early night. Dad debated getting another order of swamp bugs to go – but Keelan said he did not want see crawfish again – so dad resisted.

March 6, 2005 –

Today was a move day – and the Cajun Campground – assisted our decision by ensuring that there was no toilet paper in the bathroom, and with as dirty as it was – we decided that we would just pack up and roll. Combining this with the fact that during the evening some of the kids thought it would be fun to throw some red juice drink on the motor home. This is the first time we have encountered a campground with so many kids wandering around unsupervised, and the adults sitting at their trailers, paying little attention as to what their kids were doing. The train was also very prominent, just across the road, fast, with two whistle points and four trains a night. (Depending on whether the train cars were full or empty – it felt like you had a vibrating bed). It was too bad – as it sort of left a poor impression given all the wonderful times that we have had in Louisiana.

Travelled West through Louisiana – and entered Texas. The greeting sign coming into Texas says to “Drive Friendly – It’s the Texas Way” Well within about 20 minutes a truck driver came by and flipped Dad the bird (first time that this happened in the whole trip) – so much for that motto. We have not seen a boiled crawfish sign once we passed Houston and dad is going through withdrawal.

We did however see signs for ‘Great food just 150 miles’, ‘yep it’s a beaver’, ‘only 45 miles’ etc. Needless to say advertising works and we couldn’t resist stopping in at Buckees. (Beside which the boys figured he had to be the cousin of our travelling beaver mascot – Bucko… Bucko has now got a permanent seat in the side window – has 2 Canadian flags in his arms, Canadian Mardi Gras beads around his neck – and encircled in mini lights.) Buckees turned out to be a huge gas station, delicatessen, provision store, and tourist stuff…our first experience of everything is bigger in Texas. Everything from their own jerky and sausage, to their own brand of hot sauce – rated as ‘Pain sauce’ and ‘95% Pain’ and ‘98% Pain’. Then there was the selection of fresh pastry, soups and sandwiches; fresh meat and fruit; clothing; sun catchers, and nicer tourist type selections. The washrooms looked like something out of fancy theatres or opera house. At Buckees outside there was a huge selection of smokers, barbecues solar powered deer feeders, and outdoor gear. It was fascinating but quite overwhelming. There were even signs stating that if you received special service to contact their website and provide them with the staff members name. Apparently staff receives bonuses if their service is noted by and reported by customers.

It spitted rain throughout much of the day – but traffic on the highways was moving well – so we ended up doing more travel than we usually do – and pushed all the way to San Antonio. Mom had managed to find a relatively inexpensive campground – close to downtown. It is in a country setting and when we called – they did warn us that the place was a bit muddy – given all the rain that they have had (twice their normal amount). Well we pulled in and got set up with puddles all around us – but thought it would be all right. There was no clubhouse or pool or playground – but as we were going to be spending most of our time exploring San Antonio – it didn’t seem like a big deal. Beside which, we didn’t have to contend with dirty washrooms – as the ones here are temporarily closed (and looks like they have been for awhile). Oh well its less than half the price of anything else in the local area.

March 7, 2005 –

It rained overnight and the ground was fairly muddy when we got up. They were predicting a severe thunderstorm for this morning with clearing up in the afternoon. We loaded up and headed into San Antonio. Our first stop in downtown San Anton was a Mexican diner for breakfast (huevos rancheros and refried beans, very yummy) – and then over to the Alamo. Decided not to do a formal tour but wander on our own after checking out the information center. Mickey noted on one of the pamphlets that offered $1 off ticket prices that it was good for up to 1,000,000 people – another demonstration of doing everything big in Texas.

The Alamo, although interesting in its place in history as a show of courage – was also demonstrated a phenomenal effort on the part of the Daughters of the Republic of Texas to save and restore the Alamo. Originally named the ‘Mission San Antonio de Valero’, the complex served as home to missionaries and their converts. Originally built in 1724 it served as one of the five missions along the San Antonio River. In 1793 Spanish officials secularized the Missions (primarily for cost saving reasons) and distributed their lands to the remaining Indian residents to farm and work. As a result the community of San Antonio began to grow. In the early 1800’s a Spanish cavalry unit was stationed at the mission. They were from Alamo de Parras, Coahuila and nicknamed it Alamo (Spanish for “cottonwood”). It was the commander of the cavalry that established the first hospital in Texas on the second floor of the long barracks (which now houses the museum).

During Mexico’s 10-year struggle for independence from Spain – the Alamo was home at various times to the Spanish and then Rebel forces – and then after the revolution to the Mexican army continued to occupy it until the Texas Revolution. The land in Texas then became open to immigration (with generous land offers) and various people took up on the call to move to a new country – claim their land – and start a new life. (This mirrored the previous experience for many that settled in Americas). However in 1835 General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna (self proclaimed dictator of Mexico (and who called himself Napoleon of the West)) – decided that taxes should be imposed on all people including settlers and the settlers felt that some of their previous rights under the Mexican Constitution were being eroded. Therefore in protest, they did a number of things to draw attention to this injustice – including displaying an old captured Spanish cannon that they had.

Santa Anna not being impressed by this insolence – sent his brother in law (General Martin Perfecto de Cos) and a troop of men to put down this disturbance and take back the cannon. This only served to make the citizen’s more determined – and they had flags made up saying “Come and Take It”. They fought off de Cos and sent the troops back. Santa Anna was now furious and gathered up 4000 men and started to march on San Antonio. There were 200 men in the mission included Jim Bowie (of the Bowie knife) and David Crockett. They requested help from the US but received only a bit of help from other farmers and settlers. When Santa Anna arrived he called for “No Quarter” and attacked ferociously. Inside the fort, Colonel Travis knew that they faced overwhelming odds, and legend says that he drew a line in the ground and asked that anyone willing to fight with him to the death to step over the line – and all but one man did. After a 13 day siege, on the morning of March 6, 1836 the Mexican forces conducted a surprise predawn raid on the Alamo. Although the Alamo group were able to beat back several attacks, the Mexican forces regrouped and were able to breach the walls. Once inside they turned the captured cannon on the fort and blasted open the barricaded doors. A fierce struggle continued but the defenders were overwhelmed by sure numbers of attackers and were defeated. The battle ended before sunrise and all of the defenders were either killed in the battle or executed immediately afterwards by Santa Anna forces. Only the civilians (woman and children) were allowed to leave and only if they told all others what their fate would be if they defied Santa Anna.

There were a quiet a few kids walking around today and so we found out that this was Spring Break for a number of them. There were school band trips, basketball teams in for competitions, etc. Although the locals say that it is not busy – it is a bit of a shock to the system when you are used to having places pretty much to yourself.

After finishing seeing the Alamo – spent about 4 hours walking around the River Walk or Paseo del Rio. By this time the weather had cleared up and it was sunny, muggy and about 75 degrees (dad was the only one smart enough to be in shorts so the rest of us were a tad warm). There are 21 blocks of cobblestone and flagstone paths that wind along the river in the heart of the city. San Antonio’s Riverfront development – with its canals, shops, restaurants, hotels and shop – is very spectacular. The archway, bridges, stairs, and drain spouts – are all integrated into their waterways. Between watching the activity on the canals – and the people watching, it was a very enjoyable way to spend the day. The La Villita, a historic arts village right in the downtown area – was also interesting – with mom eyeing some copper sinks – and the boys watching and purchasing some blown glass figures. Finished the day off with an early supper at an Irish Pub on the water – with great portions of food – plenty of peanuts (and pigeons) – and Guinness. Dad is sorry that he is not going to be here for the St. Patrick’s Day celebration – when they turn the water in the canals – green.

After waiting until rush hour was over – headed north of town to the Alamo Quarry shopping complex – for a coffee and an Internet connection. The shopping complex is massive in size – and the three large smoke stacks that are lit up at night – making it very visible. Into Borders (similar to Chapters) to access their Internet – and were able to update the web page and respond to some e-mail. There is a ring road around San Antonio – make getting around relatively easy – however the Texas merges take a bit of getting used to.

March 8, 2005 –

Up to a clear morning – and a slow leisurely start. Today the plan was to tour the San Antonio Missions National Historic Park, with its four missions – and then do some grocery shopping before returning home to a quiet afternoon. However – things did not seem to work out that way – as seeing the missions consumed more time than we anticipated. We all enjoyed the missions in various stages of repair and restoration and enjoyably spent the day wandering around various sites and learning about the culture and lifestyle of the day.

The boys were impressed by the sheer size of San Jose y San Miguel de Aguaya with its working gristmill, and the opportunity to do rubbings of the four missions. Franciscan friars established the Missions, along with the Alamo in 1700’s. At the time Spain had claimed a large area of land for its own – but lacked the people to settle and hold the control. Therefore the Missions became the spiritual arm of their claim. They felt that if they could convert the native people to Catholicism and teach them to live as reasoning and law abiding Spanish citizens, it was their means to secure their empire. The Missions became a buffer against other European nation’s interests in their territory. However neither the Church nor the Spanish government intend the missions to last forever. It was felt that once the local native population accepted the Catholic faith and the Spanish way of life, the mission and its property would be turned over to the community. This process was called secularization, and was supposed to happen within 10 years – however for the missions around San Antonio took much longer (upwards of 65 years). Local community governments were established and ownership of the mission lands was given to the residents, and the missionaries stayed on as the parish priests.

The local native people – Coahuiltecans – who were primarily hunter/gatherers, and whose populations were significantly being reduced by diseases carried by the Europeans that they had encountered. They were also being attacked by Apache Indians from the north that had learned to capture and ride the wild horses that had escaped from the early Spaniards. Therefore the Coahuiltecans were enticed / coerced into the safety of life at the missions with the technological benefits that the Franciscans offered (iron, ready supply of foods, safety, etc.), as well as protection from other marauding Apaches. Within a short period of time the Coahuiltecan Indians learned to be farmers, herders and learned the complexity of building with stone and brick. This changed their world forever.

The Franciscans knew of the importance of water in the semi-arid climate around the San Antonio River. They tapped into this water by digging acequias (ditches) and aqueducts – to make use of make the ground more arable. The acequias also provided water supplies for the Missions and powered the gristmills etc. Many of these acequias are still running today irrigating the fields around the area.

As we drove to and toured the four different Missions – the boys were impressed as to the grandeur that was there – and disappointed to see some of the graffiti and damage that others had done to the buildings. (It should not be necessary to post signs in the sacristy of the church asking people to not write on the walls although some of the graffiti dates back to the civil war so it is not entirely a new problem). The boys were also thrilled to see their first Horned Toad outside one of the Missions. The road that is usually used to get from one mission to another was closed with water running over the road. The road is designed to have water come over it – so obviously this is not an infrequent problem.

Came home to a meal of chicken, sausage and ham Gumbo (recipe courtesy of the Tabasco plant) which was nice and spicy – even through mom only added about half the amount of Tabasco as recommended. We have also decided to stay an extra day (despite the lack of amenities) as the Gisler family are going to come up tomorrow – and we can get a bit of a visit in the evening.

March 9, 2005 –

Today was a relax and catch up day. The boys did up a fair amount of schoolwork – and Dad just lazed around. In the afternoon – Mickey and Dad went in to do a bit of a shopping trip – while Mom and Keelan explored the area down by the river – and saw the damage that the floods did to the campground in 2002.

Dad and Mickey were following some sketchy directions given to them second hand – and ended up not going where they were supposed to but did find a shopping area. However missed a turn on the way back and ended up passing through an Air Force Base (where is Mom the navigator when we need her?). They managed to pull over to the side of the road – and from an overview map figure out approximately where they were and what they needed to do to make it home.

The Gisler family arrived about 4:00 o’clock – and we spent the rest of the afternoon and evening with them – catching up on where we had each been – and sharing our experiences of schooling the kids on the road. The boys and Gabrielle had a good time playing together as well.

Off tomorrow in our separate directions again – and will probably not see the Gisler family again until they come to visit us at the cabin on their way home to Alaska. It is too bad that our time seems so short that we feel that we now have to rush our trip if we are going to get everything in that we want to do.

March 10, 2005 –

Up this morning and after saying good-bye to Hans and Tam – headed east. A beautifully clear day – as we started to climb out way out of the San Antonio flood plain. Unfortunately between the climb, headwind, and the 75 MPH speed limit – we did not have optimum fuel economy.

Within an hour things were starting to get more arid – and first smaller and then larger cactus started to appear. The fields started to give way to more barren patches with – various sizes and ages of oil pumps on them. There was also an area that had oil pumps in the valley and a wind generation ranch on the top of the hills (seems that they have the best of both worlds).

We are just starting to get into the beginning of the Buttes and Mesa – in certain areas – and at this point everyone thinks they look really interesting (not sure if they will still feel that way in another two weeks time).

Pulled into Fort Stockton about 3:00 in the afternoon – and although still early decided to pull off for the night to give the kids a chance to play. They had been working hard on their schoolwork on the drive up. We hoped for a swim as the temperature topped out at 80 degrees but the pool was closed as it is still winter! Got an opportunity for the boys to get a picture in front of the giant roadrunner.